Bill, I’m sure you have just forgot.

The full build is here.

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Bob

It’s probably me trying to explain how it works that is confusing.  Maybe someone else can explain it better or differently.

I’ll try to simplify checking the fly operation, fixing is another beast.

If you remove the hammer and using the screw to keep the fly in place.  Then holding the hammer in the approximate position it would be when holding the gun in shooting, spur up. Move the fly forward and it should stop where it covers the half cock notch.  When you cock the hammer the sear drags the fly back toward the full notch but should release it before the sear drops in the notch.  You can do the same thing with a finger nail or knife blade and see what happens.  The fly should free fall out of the way so the sear can drop in the full notch….without the fly touching the sear.  Whether cocking the hammer slow or fast the fly should not contact the sear.  If the sear can catch any part of the fly in or out of the full notch it needs work.

Of course we are looking everything in a static state and need to think how all the parts move when in motion.  We are all trying to figure things out with words, where if the parts were in hand it would be much easier to see what is going on.  We are all learning something with this thread and, I would like to see both you guys guns working properly.  

Your comment starting with “This first contact needs to be short”  I believe is correct.

In my opinion the stop #1 is probably ok as long as it is not allowing the lump #4 get too close to the full notch, definitely not into it.  Once the sear travels past the lump the fly should be free and not interfere with the completion of cocking.  As long as the sear doesn’t hang up on surface #3 (I corrected this arrow to reflect the proper surface better), it should cock with no issues.

Bob

After added the above comments I've been studying all these pictures closer.  I'm now more convinced you are correct with the rounding of the surface #3 (I corrected this arrow to reflect the proper surface better).  Looking closer at the original compared to your new fly, this point is much more rounded on the original.  By changing it should not effect the sear sliding past the half notch.  I would change it by rounding or changing the angle until it no longer protrudes into the full notch.  Do this without any change to the length of point #4.  That length is required for the the sear to get past the half notch.  I would take one of your extra flys and make this change.  This goes back to my points that the fly should never protrude into the full notch and the point early on that said the fly was too long.  Just that too long in this case probably only applies to part of the fly.

Most of the time I'm a bit slow at seeing things!

I ground more off the front of the fly I'd already been using for the 47 set trigger.  The lower rear (3 in bobw's numeration on my picture) was now almost gone, leaving a surface almost parallel with the fullcock notch but still protruding into it slightly.

Assembling the hammer with fly and hammer screw could be done with the hammer at full cock, and with thumb pressure on the hammer, the set trigger would snap it.  Subsequent attempts to cock the hammer resulted in a mild bump or snag when pulled all the way back, but the hammer wouldn't catch in the notch.

I soldered a piece of jigsaw blade to the fly at position 1, dressed it down until it fit and turned on the hammer pin in the hammer slot.  This served to hold what was left of the projection on the fly almost completely out of the fullcock notch.  Assembled, it would snag a little more positively when fully cocked against thumb pressure, and occasionally cock if enough upending, tapping, and other maneuvers were done.  However, now, if cocked, the sear fell into the halfcock notch when trigger was pulled.

So I took a new fly and soldered an identical piece of blade onto position 1, grinding it down in front until it would allow the tab 3-4 to move out of the halfcock notch when down.  When cocked, it seemed to snag more frequently going over the fullcock notch, and would occasionally stick at full cock, with sufficient tapping, rattling, turning over, etc.

At this point, lobe 3-4 still projected into the fullcock notch, although it looked like the surface should allow the sear to slide over it and push it up and out of the way.  Assembling and trying to cock resulted in more pronounced snagging and even occasional cocking.  I took the fly and ground a slight radius or rounding on position 3.  On assembly, it actually cocked, and stayed cocked, more often than it merely heavily snagged.

I put the mainspring on and the hammer snagged often and heavily, and cocked occasionally.

I guess some progress has been made, but it mystifies me how this setup can give these problems.  I'll continue to round off the fly at position 3 and see if the full cocking outstrips the snagging and bumping.  Certainly the extra metal at 1 keeps the fly higher in the fullcock notch; I doubt that a thicker piece there could move it completely out while still allowing the automatic halfcock when the action is opened.

All I do know is that I'm getting plenty tired of taking this thing apart and putting it back together.