It's all, wishfull thinking but, 2 things that would bring it up to small CF strength, would be 5/16 pressfit pins and a full rolling block type hammer, that goes under the BB, 1/4 to 3/8's, using a new BB, possibly one like Rodney made for the 44's. I don't know if the Favorite pin geometery would allow the RB type hammer to work though.

I kike the PL action better, gets the hammer out of the way of the cleaning rod and could (if it isn't) be made to cock on closing like a HW.

Frank

frnkeore wrote on Aug 4^th, 2017 at 2:32pm:


5/16 pins, Frank?  I think maybe you meant 5/32".   

Yes, a lugged hammer could be made to work in a Favorite. It would IMHO need a breechblock machined to have some meat for the lug to bear upon.   

I'm fond of the Page-Lewis action, too.  But it needs a stronger barrel attachment design.

uscra112 wrote on Aug 4^th, 2017 at 3:21pm:


No, I mean two .3125 dowel pins, with a .0005 press fit in the action and a .001 slip fit, for both hammer and BB, combined with a 5/8, threaded shank.

You want it to not loosen and I think that would handle it, long term, using the 25/20SS.

Do the same thing to the 44 but, use 3/8 pins and limit it to the 357 Mag/Max case head, using BP pressure/velocitys.

Frank

Frank, I have to suggest that there's a better way.

The first Model 44 that I rehabbed, I did just that.  Breechblock pivot pin a press in the frame, slip fit on the breechblock.  Ditto the lever pivot. But reaming the BB out left less metal around the hole to carry the tension load, and that bothered me.  It was a long time before I realized that that's bassackwards.  The breechblock pivot should be loose enough that the block can move to the rear until the shoulders bear.   I'm attaching two force resolution diagrams that Chuck Dietz did a couple of years ago, for the case where the shoulders don't bear, and the case where they do bear.   Notice that in the first case the breechblock pivot takes a huge tension load, but in the second case it takes next to nothing.

Setting up the action, you first have to determine whether the breechblock can contact the frame shoulders. Fiddle the pivot until it does. Then tighten up the toggle linkage.  Last, fit the barrel so that on lockup the breechblock wedges tightly between the barrel face and the shoulders.  I like about .003" interference at the barrel face.    
  
The Favorite is just a scaled-down Model 44, and sets up the same way.

And do it all to a 1915, because the link is much stronger, being so much thicker.

Phil

Yes indeed and by far the better way!

JLouis

This is what I had in mind.

The red lines are extentions to the hammer. The hammer with be full width of the BB from the red line down to the pivot and would look much the same as a RB hammer does. The brown line, is the axis between the C/L of the bore and the hammer pivot, a much more direct path.

This eleminates the linkage, taking most of the pressure at a acute angle. The linkage, then becomes a support to stabilize the bridge between the two 5/16 pins (front pivot pin and bb pin).

The hammer might have to be cocked, before opening the BB if, the link couldn't be made to move it, the required amount or, it could be made to open like a Bullard.

Chuck, thank you VERY much, for the time you spent, drawing these diagrams.

Frank

You are welcome, but Phil drew the picture. I just put numbers on it.
Note there is still significant vertical load on the pivot pin. Just oversizing the hole could cause problems.
Chuck