Ivar wrote on Feb 18^th, 2024 at 5:15pm:


Unertls seem to run around $700-$800 for a 15x, and on occasion I've seen them down around $600-$650, but not too often these days.

Ivar wrote on Feb 18^th, 2024 at 9:02pm:


750-900  for 1.25
Big programmers $1400  and up.( like sometimes over 2k if bidders are drunk)

I like the more traditional look of the MVA "B" with the black knobs...

FWIW I think in-line muzzle loaders are a sin, just call me a Luddite.

Old-Win wrote on Feb 16^th, 2024 at 1:52pm:

Old-Win the ranges I presently shoot at only have 300 yds max.
But thank you for your informative info.  I kind of knew that but to be honest I did not think about it, I guess because of the range limitations I have presently.

The black "knobs" on Lyman's is one of the reasons I like them so well. Unertl did offer black anodized mounts/knobs, but they are not nearly as common. The earlier Lyman's were blued steel. Fecker scopes are very fine scopes, but all still have bright aluminum mounts, and higher power 16-20+ hard to find, or determine as most are not marked as to power. A lot of if"s, and's or butt's. Choose any of the above, and you will be happy.

Thank you, Vall but, it's kinda complicated for me.

In the past, I have aimed a scope at the window blinds and counted the number of blinds I can see in the scope, vs the number that my eye can see, in the approx area of the scopes field of view. Not as accurate but, gives a idea.

I read about calculating it that way (not the blinds but, using brick work), in a old AR.

Vall,
The way it works, is that you count the number blinds or brick rows that the the scope covers (can be vertical or horizontal) then you note the distance the lens covered on that surface with the naked eye. You then count the number of "blinds" that are in that distance, then divide the 2 numbers.

i.e.
In the magnified area, you see 10 blinds and in unmagnified view, that same distance has 100 blinds, it's 10x. The hard part, is determining the distance that the magnified area covers. You need a reference points. I used the top of the blinds, then try to get a good idea of where the bottom of the magnified view is with the naked eye.

I haven't done it but, the way to do that, would be to number the blinds, to know exactly where that point is.

Also, I focus the the scope down, to it's shortest distance so, it only takes in a few of the blinds, to make it easier to pick out my reference points. It will be more problematic with higher powers. I have only done it, in the house, with 4 - 8x scopes.

I don't believe you have to do it at 100 yds and you can do it, at any distance that the scope will focus down to. As a thought, for higher powers, you could set up a tape measure, horizontally. Focus on it, at any convenient distance. Note the last number you can see, with the FOV at the start of the tape, then have someone mark, where the outer edge, of the FOV is, with the naked eye.

Doing it with the blinds wouldn't have the accuracy of the way they do it in the link but, using a tape measure, as I described, I think would.