Page Index Toggle Pages: [1] 2  Send TopicPrint
Hot Topic (More than 10 Replies) rolling block disassembly (Read 8197 times)
KWK
Senior Forum Member
****
Offline



Posts: 398
Location: USA
Joined: Jul 12th, 2004
rolling block disassembly
Jun 24th, 2020 at 11:58pm
Print Post  
I have a Lone Star rolling block I'd like to fully disassemble to apply corrosion inhibitor and lube. Also, it appears I might want to polish the end of the part which tensions the breech block. 

The main spring is under great tension against its stop on the receiver, and it's not obvious to me the best sequence to remove the trigger guard and lower tang assembly which carries it. There's one cross screw in front and two screws in the rear attaching the guard to the receiver. My best guess is: Grasp the two tangs firmly and have a second person remove the two rear screws so the guard can be rotated on the front screw to relieve main spring tension, then remove the front screw.

Some aspects of this particular action puzzle me. I don't see why a single cross screw wasn't used in the rear to hold the trigger guard to the receiver, as is done in front. The two screws in back have different heads and polish than the one in front. The rifle has an excellent plain trigger, but there is a surprising amount of lateral play to the trigger (along its pin), which I think I'll shim. The holes in the receiver for the hammer and breech pins are surprisingly rough; I'd have thought those would be reamed. Regardless, I quite like the rifle, which is in .30-40.
« Last Edit: Jun 25th, 2020 at 12:10am by KWK »  

Karl
Back to top
WWW  
IP Logged
 
ScrapMetal
Junior Member
**
Offline



Posts: 75
Location: Nebraska
Joined: Aug 21st, 2019
Re: rolling block disassembly
Reply #1 - Jun 25th, 2020 at 1:55am
Print Post  
Maybe some exploded views will help?

Disassembly text it a bit hard to make out but I can still do it with my readers =

(You need to Login or Register to view media files and links)

Just a couple more exploded views I found on the web:

(You need to Login or Register to view media files and links)

(You need to Login or Register to view media files and links)

Not much but hope it helps,

-Ron

  
Back to top
 
IP Logged
 
rgchristensen
Frequent Elocutionist
*****
Offline



Posts: 1061
Joined: Jan 2nd, 2014
Re: rolling block disassembly
Reply #2 - Jun 25th, 2020 at 9:52am
Print Post  
KWK wrote on Jun 24th, 2020 at 11:58pm:


The main spring is under great tension against its stop on the receiver, and it's not obvious to me the best sequence to remove the trigger guard and lower tang assembly which carries it. There's one cross screw in front and two screws in the rear attaching the guard to the receiver. 

Some aspects of this particular action puzzle me. I don't see why a single cross screw wasn't used in the rear to hold the trigger guard to the receiver, as is done in front.


     RB's made to be fitted with single-set triggers had two screws, one from each side, to hold the rear of the guard, and make room for extra trigger parts.

CHRIS
RGChristensen
  
Back to top
 
IP Logged
 
marlinguy
Frequent Elocutionist
*****
Offline


Ballards may be weaker,
but they sure are neater!

Posts: 15737
Location: Oregon
Joined: Feb 2nd, 2009
Re: rolling block disassembly
Reply #3 - Jun 25th, 2020 at 9:55am
Print Post  
You have a Sporting Rifle receiver, which uses the two rear screws, vs. military that used the single screw front and rear. The reason for two screws at the rear of a Sporting model was the possibility of those being equipped with a single set trigger. It's a much better setup than a single through screw.
The way I break mine down is to use a small mainspring clamp to depress the flat mainspring. I put brass shim or even a piece of aluminum pop can on the outside of the lower tang, and then just crank my small clamp down on the mainspring to compress it. Then you can easily disassemble the lower tang, and then remove the clamp if you want, or leave it on until it's reassembled. Without the clamp it can be done, but takes more work.
  

(You need to Login or Register to view media files and links)
Back to top
 
IP Logged
 
KWK
Senior Forum Member
****
Offline



Posts: 398
Location: USA
Joined: Jul 12th, 2004
Re: rolling block disassembly
Reply #4 - Jun 25th, 2020 at 10:03am
Print Post  
Ah, yes, I remember Dave recommending a set trigger. I should have figured out that's why there are two screws back there.

I'll try a clamp this evening. The angle the main spring makes to the trigger guard makes makes me wonder how successful I will be.

Thanks, all.
  

Karl
Back to top
WWW  
IP Logged
 
marlinguy
Frequent Elocutionist
*****
Offline


Ballards may be weaker,
but they sure are neater!

Posts: 15737
Location: Oregon
Joined: Feb 2nd, 2009
Re: rolling block disassembly
Reply #5 - Jun 25th, 2020 at 10:06am
Print Post  
KWK wrote on Jun 25th, 2020 at 10:03am:
Ah, yes, I remember Dave recommending a set trigger. I should have figured out that's why there are two screws back there.

I'll try a clamp this evening. The angle the main spring makes to the trigger guard makes makes me wonder how successful I will be.

Thanks, all.


Well if it doesn't work for you, I'm not sure why? As I said, this is what I've used for years and it works for my guns. Just don't try to clamp it too far forward of the mainspring screw, as that will be harder to keep it from sliding back.
  

(You need to Login or Register to view media files and links)
Back to top
 
IP Logged
 
kootne
Senior Forum Member
****
Offline



Posts: 428
Location: Libby, Mt.
Joined: Mar 6th, 2012
Re: rolling block disassembly
Reply #6 - Jun 25th, 2020 at 10:52am
Print Post  
Maybe I'm not clear on the question but to break down a Remington I do this;
1. Pull the screw and clip that retain the breech and hammer pins
2. Cock the hammer and the breech block pin and block can be easily removed.
3. Lower the hammer, it will go far enough with the block out of place that all tension is removed from the spring.
4. Remove the hammer pin and hammer.
5. Remove the screws retaining the tang assembly and it will slip out.

Obviously, re-assemble in reverse order. Cocking/de-cocking the hammer becomes your mainspring clamp.
« Last Edit: Jun 25th, 2020 at 9:16pm by kootne »  

You can't make good decisions without good information.
Back to top
 
IP Logged
 
oneatatime
Frequent Elocutionist
*****
Offline



Posts: 3750
Location: Rocky Mountains
Joined: Oct 30th, 2011
Re: rolling block disassembly
Reply #7 - Jun 25th, 2020 at 11:07am
Print Post  
kootne, that's the way I've always done it. Vall, can you explain how you get a clamp from the lower tang to the mainspring without the lower tang having been removed from the receiver?
  
Back to top
 
IP Logged
 
marlinguy
Frequent Elocutionist
*****
Offline


Ballards may be weaker,
but they sure are neater!

Posts: 15737
Location: Oregon
Joined: Feb 2nd, 2009
Re: rolling block disassembly
Reply #8 - Jun 25th, 2020 at 11:33am
Print Post  
oneatatime wrote on Jun 25th, 2020 at 11:07am:
kootne, that's the way I've always done it. Vall, can you explain how you get a clamp from the lower tang to the mainspring without the lower tang having been removed from the receiver?


I simply remove the buttstock, and it gives easy access from the rear to slide my clamp in. The clamp also works fine going in from the side behind the trigger guard. The clamp I use looks like a miniature of a woodworker's clamp with opposing screws to tighten it. So the "jaws" are smooth and about 1.5" long. It easily slips in to clamp the spring and takes very little to compress the spring.
Like these, only mine is steel, and tiny.
(You need to Login or Register to view media files and links)

I've done it as kootne describes also, but don't always want to completely disassemble the gun if I only need the lower tang removed.
  

(You need to Login or Register to view media files and links)
Back to top
 
IP Logged
 
oneatatime
Frequent Elocutionist
*****
Offline



Posts: 3750
Location: Rocky Mountains
Joined: Oct 30th, 2011
Re: rolling block disassembly
Reply #9 - Jun 25th, 2020 at 12:42pm
Print Post  
Ah, sans buttstock. Thanks. I don't normally remove the buttstock, or the lower tang, for that matter.
  
Back to top
 
IP Logged
 
marlinguy
Frequent Elocutionist
*****
Offline


Ballards may be weaker,
but they sure are neater!

Posts: 15737
Location: Oregon
Joined: Feb 2nd, 2009
Re: rolling block disassembly
Reply #10 - Jun 25th, 2020 at 8:56pm
Print Post  
oneatatime wrote on Jun 25th, 2020 at 12:42pm:
Ah, sans buttstock. Thanks. I don't normally remove the buttstock, or the lower tang, for that matter.


Not much I do on a Rolling Block that doesn't end up having the lower tang off, and thus the buttstock too.
  

(You need to Login or Register to view media files and links)
Back to top
 
IP Logged
 
bpjack
Frequent Elocutionist
*****
Offline



Posts: 2469
Location: East Olympia, WA
Joined: May 18th, 2008
Re: rolling block disassembly
Reply #11 - Jun 25th, 2020 at 11:08pm
Print Post  
Are these the clamps Vall?

(You need to Login or Register to view media files and links)
  

ASSRA # 11318
Plethora?  You say I have a plethora?.
Back to top
 
IP Logged
 
KWK
Senior Forum Member
****
Offline



Posts: 398
Location: USA
Joined: Jul 12th, 2004
Re: rolling block disassembly
Reply #12 - Jun 25th, 2020 at 11:18pm
Print Post  
kootne wrote on Jun 25th, 2020 at 10:52am:
Cocking/de-cocking the hammer becomes your mainspring clamp.


With the hammer out, the mainspring is pressing hard on a cross pin in the receiver, and thus should also be pressing down hard on the trigger guard. I hesitate to back out the rear screws with this much tension still in the mainspring.

marlinguy, I just looked at the mainspring and you are correct, the angle isn't great at all, and coming in from behind should be no problem. I'll use a clamp and am embarrassed I didn't think of that myself.   Embarrassed  Thank you. Not having a clamp such as you describe, I'll use two pieces of plywood from behind and a third piece of wood to act like a fulcrum and clamp down with a C clamp.
« Last Edit: Jun 25th, 2020 at 11:23pm by KWK »  

Karl
Back to top
WWW  
IP Logged
 
marlinguy
Frequent Elocutionist
*****
Offline


Ballards may be weaker,
but they sure are neater!

Posts: 15737
Location: Oregon
Joined: Feb 2nd, 2009
Re: rolling block disassembly
Reply #13 - Jun 26th, 2020 at 10:02am
Print Post  
A small C clamp works, and is helped by use of some old inner tube on each side to keep it from slipping, and keep from marring the metal surfaces.
I keep an old inner tube under my work bench and find myself constantly cutting pieces off to protect parts I need to clamp. Works great when clamping stocks during repairs also, and cushions the clamp to avoid damage.
  

(You need to Login or Register to view media files and links)
Back to top
 
IP Logged
 
kootne
Senior Forum Member
****
Offline



Posts: 428
Location: Libby, Mt.
Joined: Mar 6th, 2012
Re: rolling block disassembly
Reply #14 - Jun 26th, 2020 at 11:04am
Print Post  
Mine are old sporters, maybe the tension is less with age. I just took the one with the strongest hammer spring, pulled the wood, hammer and block. Took out one rear tang screw, held the tangs with one hand and pulled out the other screw. The residual tension was gone within 1/4". Maybe Dave used some serious hammer springs in his rifles?
  

You can't make good decisions without good information.
Back to top
 
IP Logged
 
Page Index Toggle Pages: [1] 2 
Send TopicPrint