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slumlord44
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Stevens Tip Up Lock Up
Dec 22nd, 2008 at 10:07pm
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Anybody familar with the Stevens Tip Up? USPS delivered one to me today. It is actually a 12 Guage Shotgun. A little off subject here but the action is the same as the rifle. Gun is prety decent but lock up is a little loose. I am thinking a better spring in the lock up mechanism possibly. Anybody got any ideas? Realy neat damascus barrel, a few minor interior pits but I think it will be all right with black powder or pyorodex.
  
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Green_Frog
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Re: Stevens Tip Up Lock Up
Reply #1 - Dec 23rd, 2008 at 8:08am
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You've got two places where it may be worn and therefore loose.  The axis pin (or screw, I don't remember which) upon which the barrel tilts down may be worn or the holes in which it operates may be enlarged.  This is taken care of by rereaming the hole slightly larger and installing an oversized taper pin.   

The other source of looseness is the latch itself which is mostly a slightly tapered flat wedge plate under the barrel.  An old gunsmith friend of mine, sadly now deceased, made a replacement for a .22 tip-up that I had refurbished early in my single shot era.   

Either of these (or both) should be accomplished fairly easily by a competent machinist with a lathe and mill.

HTH ~ Froggie
  
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Re: Stevens Tip Up Lock Up
Reply #2 - Dec 23rd, 2008 at 1:27pm
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Froggie is correct again!  I have a tip up I am just finishing that had the same problems. I made a new shoulder bolt that the barrel swivels on .005 over sized and moved that .005 back toward the breach removing the excess headspace in my rifle. I then cleaned up the tapered notch the lock fit into and made a new lock and fit it to the receiver and barrel. Take the screw off the left side of the lock and the lock and lock spring can be removed. With the barrel and lock off you can match up the two and see how bad the wear is.

Norm
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slumlord44
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Re: Stevens Tip Up Lock Up
Reply #3 - Dec 24th, 2008 at 11:53am
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I took a closer look yesterday and as near as I can tell the slot in the barrel that the latch fits in is worn. Trying to figure a fix without having someone weld it up and re machine the slot.
  
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John Taylor
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Re: Stevens Tip Up Lock Up
Reply #4 - Dec 24th, 2008 at 12:41pm
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I have machined new locks for the pistols but never the large rifle action ( I do have one in for repair). The pivot screw is usually bent as well as the hole being worn some when there is a head space problem. First to take care of is the pivot screw then the lockup.  A new locking lug should be made out of something tough, I use pre hardened spring steel. The notch in the barrel is sometimes battered down instead of ware and can sometimes be hammered back into position but I don't feel this is a permanent repair and welding with a tig torch would be better.
  
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Re: Stevens Tip Up Lock Up
Reply #5 - Dec 24th, 2008 at 5:11pm
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I would clean up the locking grove in the barrel and then make a new lock to fit. Your lock is most likely worn and if you weld the barrel lock groove and then try to fit it to your worn lock it would be quite a job. By cleaning up the grove and then making a new lock you can also adjust the barrel fit to the receiver if needed.
Norm
  
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slumlord44
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Re: Stevens Tip Up Lock Up
Reply #6 - Dec 24th, 2008 at 10:48pm
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As near as I can tell the problem is the slot in the barrel and not the locking lug. The lug looks good and the end of the slot in the barrel where the lug fits is worn or battered down. Headspace does not seem to be a problem. you can move the barrel up and down due to the slop in the grove in the barrel. I am not a machinest and have no machine tools. I am thinking on the lines of filing the slot down to make it even with the most worn point on the barrel and then epoxying or silver soldering a hardened steel shim in place to bring the slot back up to the point where it was and the gun locks up tight again. Need to look at this for a long while before doing anything stupid.
  
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John Taylor
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Re: Stevens Tip Up Lock Up
Reply #7 - Dec 26th, 2008 at 12:52am
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Soft solder will hold the shim better than epoxy and not require the heat of silver solder. Use a lead free solder like brownells or a good plumbers solder with the right flux.
  
John Taylor   Machinist/gunsmith
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