"I do find a lot of partially burnt powder in the bore. It has been suggested to me that the pressure is low and that is why the powder in leaving the partially burnt crumbs in the bore."

In looking at your bullets, it looks to me that the reason you are not getting enough pressure to burn all you powder, is they are a bit to small for your groove dia. I do not see much engraving of the rifleing.
A larger dia bullet would ad more resistance and the powder would burn more efficiently.
This is just my observation, nothing says I am a expert.

Thoughts from others?

Thanks Guys. I had red flags up about using H110 or 296 in the 32-40. There would be a lot of extra room and I remember form my loading of handgun cartridges the advice that was given there many years ago about reduced loads. 
   The bullets that I'm shooting are not sized. They are dropping from the mold at .322". As it is with most all bullets from a mold they are not round to start with. Wonder it getting a .321 die for my lube & sizer would make any differance. I just keep getting so much conflicting advice about sizing cast bullets and shooting them as they come from the mold. It would appear to me that the bullets at .321 to .322" are sealing the bore. I'm getting no leading or gas cutting. There is a nice even ridge of lube around the muzzle of my rifle after shooting sevral shots. Looks like I will have to spend more time at my shooting lab this winter to get this project sorted out. That in itself is not a bad passtime in the winter months. Thanks again, Sendaro

frnkeore, The groove dia is .319. I do not size the SAECO #632 bullet. It is a tapered one. I was told to make a breach seating tool by using a cartridge case with a wood dowle inserted with approx. 1/16" sticking out and as square as I can make it. It seems to work OK with the tapered bullets, but the Lyman #319247 bullets that I'm casting and have some that I bought are not a tapered bullet and it is very very hard to breach seat them. So those I load as fixed ammo. I have been trying them different ways. One way is with the cartridge case not resized, but just reprimed, charged and the bullet seated with my fingers. I leave it long so that as I close the breach on the cartridge it seats the bullet to the lead ramps on the rifling. Sometimes this shoots great and then every once in a while one takes a flyer. The loading dies that I have are the RCBS Cowboy action shooting dies that are designed for lead bullets. The expander die is much like the die that Lyman offers. If I was to make a card wad to protect the bullet base would it fall away as the bullet exited the muzzle? I assume that the card wad would not be pushed down on the top or the powder charge. Please advise. I have Winchester / Western 7-111 large pistol primers that are a standard primer. I could try them instead of the Federal 210 primer that I have been using. I also have Remington 2 1/2 primers that I could use. Again your suggestions are a help. I have added a photo that will show my Stevens 44 in 32-40 Winchester along with some of my old 22 rimfire rifles.Thanks, Sendaro

Frank, Where do I go to have a breach seater made? I'm not sure even what they look like. Who do you suggest? I will try your suggestions. Thanks for the help. Most of this is new to me. Have been a hand loader for rifle, pistol, and shotgun for 46 years, but loading for cast bullets in a rifle is new to me. My casting was done for pistols for many years, but they shot well with about anything that I cast when shot at less then 50 yards. I'm learning about casting, loading and shooting this old Stevens 32-40. It's fun and I'm sure with the help of shooters like you and my years of loading adn shooting I will end up cracking this nut in the long run. Thanks, Sendaro

Would I be able to breach seat bullet that are not the tapered type as well as the tapered ones? I shot a breach seated bullet today that shot very well. Using a tang sight (Lyman #103)  and a Maynard globe front was able to shoot a very nice little group. I removed the Wm Malcolm 6X reproduction scope and shot the aforementioned to sight the rifle in with the new front globe. I was very happy with the results. First shot went low at 100 yards so the elevation was cranked up and shot #2 sent down the range. It came in less than 3/8" low. Cranked the elevation up two more clicks and the next three rounds cut each other in the bulls eye at 6 O'clock. Two more clicks in elevation got the point of impact up in the area of center bull, but I lost one. Called the shot out at 9 o'clock and it was there when I checked in the spotting scope. see the test target.
 

In my 32-40 Hi Wall with a 1:14 bbl, I've had good luck with 15.3 gr 4198, Fed 205 primer, with a Paul Jones "French" or a Saeco bullet.  I lube Beeswax 6parts, 2-3 parts safflower oil, 1 or 2 parts lanolin.  pan lubed  Works good for me!

25-21 Stevens
    100gr bullet,25/1,BS
    7.5grs AA-9
    Rem 71/2 SRBR