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Questions about Ruger #1, .270, manlicher vs other (Read 3986 times)

singleshotjack Ex Member	Questions about Ruger #1, .270, manlicher vs other Jan 30^th, 2006 at 2:54pm	Print Post
	If you are experienced with the Ruger #1 variations, I would like to ask: 1. With the manlicher stocked version, the #1 otherwise is the same as non manlicher versions, correct? 2. With non manlicher versions, problems, I understand, were experienced with best accuracy, due to faults with the factory forend attachment setup, so many guys have resorted to modifying the forend attachment, for better accuracty, is that correct? If it is, can you shed some light on why this problem happens, and what is commonly done to correct it, faulty forend attachment? If this is case, accuracy problems due to faulty forend attachment, the manlicher version may not have such a problem, due to full length stock wood, rather than normal forend wood, is this a fact, or am I overlooking something? 3. Are some #1s takedown versions, with both forend and barrel being able to be removed? If that is so, what must one do to convert a regular version into a takedown version? Please give your comments on the manlicher version, if you have experience in using it.


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MI-shooter Moderator Offline Posts: 697 Location: SE Michigan Joined: Apr 18^th, 2004	Re: Questions about Ruger #1, .270, manlicher vs o Reply #1 - Jan 30^th, 2006 at 9:21pm	Print Post
	Can't speak on the manlicher (sp?) version, but I have some experience in #3 & #1 Rugers. I currently shoot a modified #3 in competition and I had the barrel bedded to the forend and clearanced to the receiver. This has proven to be a very predictable set up. The hanger is still there, it just acts as a connection for the mainspring and ejector. It does not touch the forend at all. My current hunting rifle is a #1-S 45-70. I have been having problems with the group shifting between two points, about 6" apart at 50 yds. I think I figured it out this weekend totally by accident. I found that if I hold the front of the forend, it groups in one spot. If I hold over the forend mounting screw, it groups in the other group. Predictable as clockwork. Mind you this is shooting offhand. I am sure it has everything to do with forend pressure on the barrel. Now with the full length forend, I am sure that any pressure on the barrel will have an impact on group size. For a hunting gun will this matter? You need to experiment with hand position and pressure to tell for sure. Now the numerous #3's I have had over the years never displayed this problem. Was it the barrel band's added connection to the barrel? Maybe. Was it the barrel length? Maybe. A #1-B in .218 Bee I foolishly traded to a good friend also did not display this group shift. It did have a longer forend though. I don't think anyone can answer this with absolute certainty, but that is my $0.02 worth.


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Dale53 Oldtimer Offline Posts: 810 Location: Southwestern Ohio Joined: Apr 17^th, 2004	Re: Questions about Ruger #1, .270, manlicher vs o Reply #2 - Jan 31^st, 2006 at 12:36am	Print Post
	I recommend that anyone who needs bedding information on Ruger #1's and #3's read what Frank De haas had to say about this. He made extensive tests and came to some practical methods of solving the problems. I do not have access to my De haas books at this time but will reference them as soon as possible and forward the information to this forum (I can't remember which book the information was in, for sure). Dale53


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MartiniBelgian Frequent Elocutionist Offline Posts: 1650 Location: Aarschot Joined: Jun 7^th, 2004	Re: Questions about Ruger #1, .270, manlicher vs o Reply #3 - Jan 31^st, 2006 at 5:28am	Print Post
	I only have 1 Ruger #1, but as with any 2-piece stock rifles, you can get into trouble when the forearm is touching both barrel and receiver. Add the hanger for added complexity, and... I freefloated the barrel completely - the forend touches receiver and hanger, but not the barrel. The other way is to attach the forend to the barrel, but keep it from touching the receiver/hanger. Both will work, but combinations of the above won't for sure! These are quite accurate rifles indeed, when you take care of possible bedding problems.


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screwloose Ex Member	Re: Questions about Ruger #1, .270, manlicher vs o Reply #4 - Jan 31^st, 2006 at 8:40am	Print Post
	I have a Styer Mannlicher full stock that wouldn't group untill I glassed and locktited the stock to the barrel at the muzzel. I do not understand why the trapdoors with all the wood on them shoot so well. I rest them at the barrel band and they do fine. Lots of luck Tom


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Dale53 Oldtimer Offline Posts: 810 Location: Southwestern Ohio Joined: Apr 17^th, 2004	Re: Questions about Ruger #1, .270, manlicher vs o Reply #5 - Jan 31^st, 2006 at 6:25pm	Print Post
	Jack; The information you seek is found in "Mr. Single Shot's Gunsmithing Idea Book" by Frank De haas on page 96 "Bedding the Ruger #1 Forend". Dale53


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Shooter Ex Member	Re: Questions about Ruger #1, .270, manlicher vs o Reply #6 - Feb 10^th, 2006 at 8:59am	Print Post
	I have a #1 RSI 7X57 with the "Man Licker" stock. While I do no target shooting it easily shoots 1.5" groups with only a 2.5X scope. This is fine for me as I use it for a stalking rifle in deer hunting. Best, Mike Central Va.


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