Here is a half finished project I just picked up.  I may have biten off more than I can chew because it needs quite a bit of work, but its interesting with nice wood.  It has the breech block/hammer/lever assembly but needs everything else.   

1)  Barrel is a little under and inch at the breech and about .7 something at the front.  No markings.  Sticking my calipers in the muzzle shows a measurement about .3.  No idea about the chambering.  No dovetails for the mainspring lug or sights.
2) Still needs an extractor and extractor cut
3) Foreend fit is lacking
4) Lever/hammer/breechblock gets stuck and needs work.
5) Both tangs have been shortened.
6)I'll have to modify the through bolt piece to fit the trigger spring. 

If I can find a good take off barrel then it would solve a lot of issues, like bluing, dovetail cut for mainspring, and sights.  A number 3 would also let me clean up the foreend.

I have some project low wall receivers, what pieces from them will fit?

Any thoughts, help, or ideas would be appreciated.   

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Do you know the caliper of the existing rifle barrel.
Need to know what it is chambered in before you order an 1885 extractor.

If a smaller caliber then the barrel can be rebored for a larger caliber.
Existing forearm can be bedded for a perfect fit after you refinish the barrel.

I have obtained extractors from MVA or C Sharps.

Existing barrel can be flat sanded down with at least 400 grit or even finer for a more polished look before a reblue.

Or buy a new barrel from Ron Smith however he will only cut an octagon profile but leaves it up to you to finish the filing and sanding.
I provide Ron with the forearm before he profiles the barrel to ensure the barrel is cut to fit the barrel or the forearm is cut to fit the new barrel.

If the block sticks you need to have a gunsmith like Ron investigate if a face needs to be finely resurfaced to ensure a perfect fit to ensure the block slides perfectly but tightly.

Or is the forearm restricking the barrel hammer spring because it is not properly recessed for the spring to work properly?

Or you can free float the barrel leaving a gap around the barrel to improve accuracy but this requires converting the barrel hammer spring to a coil hammer spring around the trigger instead.

Ron converts my 1885s to coil springs to enable me to free float my barrels so the forearm does not touch the barrel and instead is mounted to a forearm hanger.

I have no idea on the chambering.  Sticking calipers in the muzzle gets readings between .29x and .30x.   To measure the chamber I  pushed a plastic punch down the bore until it caught on the lip of the chamber.  Then, using a fingernail to mark the spot, I pulled it out and measured to my fingernail.  Using that incredibly unscientific method the chamber is 1.3xx.

There is no mainspring installed.  The breech block/lever/hammer assembly slides in and out easily.  It only get jammed when attempting to close the lever the last half inch or so.  It then becomes very difficult to open or close.  I think it might be getting  jammed against the breech face, meaning there is way too little headspace (I.e. none).  That's just my guess though.  Like I said, this is very much someones half finished project.  Finishing the wood before any of the internals is certainly backwards.   

If it is a headspace issue, then finding a nice original takeoff (or installing a new barrel) would fix a lot of issues.  A new barrel would help the foreend wood, the slot for the mainspring lug, the headspace issue, and the extractor cut.   

All that would be left would be

1) source parts for trigger internals.  Like I said, I have spare low wall parts and some might work for that.
2) Figure out a way to mount the trigger spring with that through bolt piece in the way.  I think this is very doable. 
3) Deal with the short tang for a rear tang sight.

CHawk:

You can get most of the internal parts from MVA or C Sharps.

My coil springs and extractors came from C Sharps but required an experienced gunsmith to properly install with the hammer connection.
The throughbolt pull through block between the tangs will not interfere with the positioning of a coil spring which wraps around further inside.

Difficult locking of block could be due to a new tight lever pin installed after the barrel was installed.
If it is due to the existing barrel's headspace it can be shortened and the chamber recut.

Cheaper to rebore your existing barrel to a wider caliber to either .38, .40, .44 or .45. 
Plenty of space to recut a new chamber for your new caliber and properly headspace the barrel for the newly chambered rifle.

I have always put new RKS barrels on my three HighWalls at much more expense but have seen barrels successfully rebored by Ron as well.

Possibly Westerner can comment on his rebored barrel.

A fellow with a Falling Block Works which did not have tangs wished to install a rear sight.
He chiseled out an area in the stock arm to epoxy a brass plate insert; with holes drilled, so he could align and secure  the rear sight to.
Worked very well since he then won the Saskatchewan Black Powder competition.
So you do not need a tang to mount a rear sight but need something better than wood to secure it to.

Dave