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Jonathan
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Forend Cap
Sep 29th, 2026 at 12:43pm
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I recently bought my first Remington #2 and it is a delightful little rifle. I like it so much that I've decided to give it a full blown restoration. I will have to have the metal work and finishing done by others because it's beyond my capabilities but I can do the woodwork myself. I bought a nice unfinished forend which was machined for the metal forend cap which I do not have. How can I fabricate a cap that will fit well and look correct? My idea is to pour molten pewter into the inletted area and then do all of the shaping by hand but experience has shown me that molten metal poured into a wooden form or mould results in edge charring which is something that I do not want. So what is the solution? I know that you guys can do it all.  Thanks
  
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marlinguy
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Re: Forend Cap
Reply #1 - Sep 29th, 2026 at 1:25pm
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John King used to sell as cast forearm caps for these rifles, but he's retired now. Maybe he still has some though?

As for pewter tips it melts at such a low temperature it doesn't char any wood. I've cast pewter tips by putting pewter in a soup can and heat it in a pan of boiling water. That's not hot enough to char wood.
  

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gnoahhh
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Re: Forend Cap
Reply #2 - Sep 29th, 2026 at 9:10pm
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Ditto, poured pewter not charring wood. 

Get a copy of "Recreating the American Long Rifle", Buchele, Shumway, Alexander. It contains simple succinct illustrated instructions for pouring a pewter cap. I followed the "destructions" when I did my first one a long time ago and it came out perfect, subsequent ones ditto.
  
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Joe_S
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Re: Forend Cap
Reply #3 - Sep 29th, 2026 at 9:16pm
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I have done a few with some good results and some blemishes. If you decide to pour your own nosecap, do a practice pour on a piece of scrap wood first. Make sure you have some holes drilled at various angles to help secure the casting to the wood. I also recommend going around the perimeter of the wood with a small round burr on a Dremel tool to slightly undercut the wood to provide more grip. Here are some two that I did, one had some areas that did not fill out entirely, unfortunately. Dont know how to prevent that. Got lucky on the last one. You might find a youtube video on the subject. 
Good Luck whatever you decide!
Joe S
  
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Joe_S
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Re: Forend Cap
Reply #4 - Sep 29th, 2026 at 9:16pm
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the defects
  
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Joe_S
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Re: Forend Cap
Reply #5 - Sep 29th, 2026 at 9:27pm
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this one came out better.
  
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Joe_S
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Re: Forend Cap
Reply #6 - Sep 29th, 2026 at 9:28pm
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I just did a Google search for "pour tin nosecap on rifle" and got lots of hits including videos, FYI
Joe S
  
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Jonathan
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Re: Forend Cap
Reply #7 - Sep 29th, 2026 at 9:57pm
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Thanks guys I think that this will be an interesting and rewarding task. Fortunately I have extensive experience in repairing and replacing inlays on antique furniture so I'm familiar with different techniques. As with most things preparation and practice are the keys to a good outcome and I'm looking forward to getting started.
  
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gnoahhh
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Re: Forend Cap
Reply #8 - yesterday at 6:46am
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I'll leave one last parting shot of advice. When "Swiss cheesing" the base wood for the pewter to flow through for "bite", take a moment to put light countersinks on the inboard ends of the holes. They add tremendously to the grip, and if enough holes are drilled and countersunk there's no need for dowels of any sort.
  
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Jonathan
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Re: Forend Cap
Reply #9 - yesterday at 10:17am
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I just want to add a couple of notes. When looking at the information online I read a lot about how guys build dams to hold  the pour and about the disasters when using common modeling clay. Only once did I read about a product mentioned by name that worked well. Sculpy is a modeling compound that when baked at 350 degrees for 30 minutes turns hard as a rock with minimum shrinkage and can actually be machined. I've used this with great success to make one time moulds to cast butt plates and pistol grip caps out of plastic casting compounds. There are dozens of amazing materials out there that most folks are unaware of.  I suggest that everyone pick up a good art supply catalog [Blick] and a good Taxidermy supply catalog [McKenzie] which will open your eyes to a lot of materials that can save a lot of time and frustrtion.
  
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marlinguy
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Re: Forend Cap
Reply #10 - yesterday at 10:44am
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All I used was masking tape to build a dam. It does fine and keeps any excess pewter from sticking on the adjacent wood. 
The only issue I see in pouring a forearm tip on a Remington that will be shaped like the original metal tip is there's very little wood to anchor the pewter to, and very little wood that can be removed anywhere close to the tip inletting to allow pewter to flow into for a good anchor.
I like pewter tips, but I'd probably save this for another project with more wood near the forearm tip to anchor the pewter. I'd stick with a typical steel tip for a Remington factory style forearm.
  

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2152hq
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Re: Forend Cap
Reply #11 - yesterday at 5:46pm
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marlinguy wrote on Sep 29th, 2026 at 1:25pm:
John King used to sell as cast forearm caps for these rifles, but he's retired now. Maybe he still has some though?

As for pewter tips it melts at such a low temperature it doesn't char any wood. I've cast pewter tips by putting pewter in a soup can and heat it in a pan of boiling water. That's not hot enough to char wood.


Pewter melts at around 500F. How do you get it to melt using boiling water?

There are some metals that will melt at those low temps around 200F.
'Woods Metal' is one

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