Recently acquired a M44 in 25/20 SS. Barrel length 26" - B ore condition fair. Putting together ammo for obsolete caliber and reloading die going to cost $350 + depending upon how many cases I might order. Doubtful bore worthwhile to retain 25/20 SS. 

Spoke to gunsmith who concurred that if barrel removed and if up to one inch removed from the chamber end it could be relined and rechambered to 25/20 WCF and probably have a reasonably accurate 100 yard rifle as a result - cost for the work around $500 - could also consider 22LR

Thoughts?

KK, I have a 44/45 in SS and it is a wonderful rifle and cartridge. The 13 twist will shoot really well and accurately with 70 or 75 grain bullets and the "fair" bore might surprise you. The SS can be reloaded with inexpensive WCF dies and a #23 shell holder (no FL is requied and just neck sizing is better on the brass anyways). Before you do anything drastic pick up a few cases (I'm sure someone will loan you a few new cases to try) and get a few 70 (GC) and 75 (PB) cast bullets from Bullshop and see how it does. I'm sure folks can give you some reasonable and accurate loads to try. The 44 was offered from the factory in a lot of different cartridges than 22LR. The high pressure loads available for the 25-20 WCF are probably ones to be avoided in the 44 just because they hammer the links. The 44 was even offered with a special hammer in 32-40 and 38-55 and with reasonable and careful loading are still being shot by some on this list. The SS is a wonderful little cartridge and you should try it out first.

Not sure why the barrel would need to be shortened to install a liner. The liner is a larger diameter than the existing chamber. You can pick your twist rate.

Converting the current barrel to 25-20 Winchester would require cutting off a portion of the existing barrel. Rechamber and be stuck with current twist and bullets maxing out at around 90 grains.

Either way you lose a certain amount of collector value.

Part of the problem of converting to 25-20 W is that even loading to the same pressure, the W cartridge will put mod stress on the action than the SS cartridge, and the tendency to hit rod the load more likely. The 44 just won’t hold up to a lot of high pressure loads. If the rifle loosens up, you lost probably 75-80% of your investment.

The flip side to staying original, at least at the beginning is that if you buy the dies and brass, unless you trash the brass, it will retain a high percent of the cost. You can probably sell them for 75-80% of new cost. Your risk is less than $100.

There is no guarantee that by reclining the barrel that it shoot any better than it already will in its present form.

If you breech seat, you can at least try what you have with simply investing in a few pieces of brass and components. 

Lots of ways to work this. But you need to define reasonably accurate. If it’s 2” at 100 yards, I’d just buy a few
Pieces of 25-20 SS brass and a good set of sights and figure it’s good to go.

Then again I’ve been known to go to a 200 yard match with a 25
Rimfire. Surely wasn’t competitive, wasn’t dead last either. It was a lot of fun.

Question. Original 25-20 SS model 44 bore rough, have liner in 10 twist 25 cal. Is it worth putting this in and shoot 190 grain mos bullet?

sportslube wrote yesterday at 1:13pm:

Depends on the cost and your sense of humor.

Nothing wrong with 25-20 WCF in. Model 44 except peoples tendency to chase velocity.

The 32-20, 25-20 and 218 Bee all use the same parent case. No one bats an eye shooting a 32-20 on Model 44. Mention 25-20 and people get nervous. 218 Bee pretty much off the table.

Max cartridge pressures are listed in CUP to get all pressures
32-20 16,000
25-20 28,000
218 Bee 40,000
22 Hornet 43,000

I mention the 22 Hornet because it was a factory offered cartridge, I think it only lasted about a year. Too many damaged rifles.

Another cartridge not mentioned is the 28-30. Has basically the same case head as the 25/32-20. No one thinks that it’s an over powered cartridge for the 44. But people aren’t likely to load that to 2500 fps.

If you enjoy smaller bore cartridges, the 25-20 is a good choice. Either version.

I would shoot the barrel some and see how it shoots with developed loads.  You can find a few cases, if you scrounge diligently, and a tong tool with attached mould in .25-20SS should be easily available on auction sites or at gun shows at a considerably lower total cost than $350 or $500.  If you're patient, even regular loading dies and moulds can be found used relatively cheaply.  If the barrel leads or has problems, I would fire lap it and see if that helps.  It seems to me that there's a lot of diagnostic and treatment work yet to be done before giving up on the barrel as it is.

I had a Low Wall in .25-20SS with a pristine barrel, except for some erosion ahead of the chamber.  I tried everything (including the fire lapping) but could not get it to shoot.  Finally, weeping all the while, I had Redman reline it to .25 caliber and I chambered it (again) to .25-20SS.  It shoots well now, but still isn't a Quarter Bore 200m target rifle.  Nor was it ever meant to be; it's a light sporter, like the 44 shown.  That was a very rare failure.  I have other rifles with dark, speckled, frosted or mildly pitted bores, that I have gotten to shoot well enough for most sporting purposes.  A dedicated target rifle is in another class entirely, and should be sought as a separate thing in itself. 

If you decide to get into the "antiques business," such expenses and workarounds are SOP, and, to me anyway, part of the challenge and fun.