Here is the part I would like to improve on. One problem with the dipping, in addition to damaging the wood, is the cost of filling a  ten pound pot of tin. Not sure ten pounds would be enough. 

I tried making a fine wire of tin and using a soldering iron to fill in the holes but could not get the iron hot enough to soften the nosecap enough to get a weld. 
Joe S

A low temp solder and soldering gun or iron wont melt the forearm tip, but it will melt the solder to fill the voids. I'd ask Bobw what solder he's referring to and try soldering the voids instead of removing the whole tip.

Pretty much what Greg (gt) said.  I’ve had limited success filling voids.  My first gun I did, something like 25 years ago, had a couple voids. I got them fixed but it took some work.   

Now day, and every pour after that first one, I over size the form.  Which, if the pewter is at the correct temperature, will fill out and not leave imperfection once it is worked down to the final shape.

Here are a series of pictures showing the over sized mould and finished project.
Bob

marlinguy wrote on Aug 31^st, 2025 at 7:31pm:


RotoMetals has low melt (235) pewter.

(You need to Login or Register to view media files and links)
 
Or, would Cerrosafe work?

Joe_S wrote on Sep 1^st, 2025 at 1:21pm:


Not at all what I thought you had for issues.  I see the wood is finished so I would assume there is finish on the pewter.  I’ve never poured on top of an original pour so I’m not sure what it would look like, but in this case I would probably try it before removing all the pewter.  Really nothing to lose.   

Remove the bad section completely.  The new pewter would need something to lock into so you would need to under cut the old, cut slots in the old or drill holes in the wood and old pewter.  May need to use all these methods, but it needs to be locked in so it stays in place.    If you are luck the new would slightly melt the original and bond, but by locking it in properly it would stay securely in place.  Then build a clay dam and repour this area.    Work it down, polish and refinish the wood that will probably be damaged.

Your working a realm I have not played in so these are just my thoughts.  Good luck.

Maybe Greg, or others that have poured these, have other thought and will chime.
Bob

I have cut a small groove in a block of wood, then pour in your pewter to make strip, like making a piece of solder wire. Then use your soldering gun or iron. Make sure tip is clean, melt small puddles over the bad area and build it up, then file it down.

I tested the melted pewter temp by dipping a toothpick in it for a couple of seconds. When it got to the point that the toothpick didn't singe, I did the pour. I didn't have any burnt wood.
What low-temp solders have you used? I would assume that you need to flux the repair site.