rifleman wrote on Aug 28
th, 2025 at 6:44pm:
Ok I can send photos when I get in from the field. I have inletting black. My hope was to not have to bed the stock around the tang.
Hopefully someone has found a curved chisel or something that works well on the inner rounded top and bottom of wrist and can point me to the exact tool.
Yes, to do the rounded inside of the tang area I use gouges. I would guess you don’t have many of them. I have a few as shown in yellow in the first picture. The second picture shows a shallow gouge, this one is a #2/5 Pfeil. A #2 is the shallowest radius tool they make. The higher the number the more/tighter radius the tool has. The 5 is the width.
This being said, make sure you black everything, back of the action and tang, with the tang in place. Don’t do one area at a time. The wood needs to be fitted to both areas at the same time, and sometimes you are surprised where the hang up is!
Without gouges I would use a round rasp or even a round or a small half round metal file. It probably won’t take much wood removal anyway. Use the end and removing just the black areas. The shoulder at the bottom of the tang inlet is tougher. If you have a dremel, that might work.
As far as the wood fit into the cup at the back of the frame goes, I like it fairly snug, compressing the wood slightly to tighten it up. Even with that, when the wood shrinks, it cane get loose. This is the only area I would bed but only after it’s sat through a season and if it comes loose. The wood can actually twist here when loose. In my opinion don’t bed the tang, instead give the tang a little room in the wood so the wood can move as it expands and shrinks in the climate that you and I live in.
My 2 cents!
Bob