I bought this Ballard offhand rifle at the Greeley, Co. show in May without a forearm. I got a good piece of wood from a friend that looked like a good match, but after shaping it, and sanding, I began applying finish and it turned dark with the first coat! With nothing to lose I continued applying finish coats, and it didn't get any darker, but still too dark compared to the buttstock.

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Talked with a friend who sold me the forearm blank and he suggested trying "wood bleach" which I'd never heard of. Ace Hardware had it in powdered form, so bought a bag labeled "oxalic acid" and after stripping the finish back off I mixed the bleach powder with water and scrubbed the forearm. No change I could see, so I sanded it with 1200 grit, and repeated. Seemed like no change again, so I repeated a few more times. I thought it might be lighter, so wiped it dry and held it next to the buttstock and was surprised to see it was quite a bit lighter.
I rinsed it with hot water to neutralize the bleach and set it side for a couple days in the sun to dry well. I began applying finish again, and noticed it stayed light, but the darker veining popped more and hadn't bleached, which I liked. I did 6 coats of finish and sanded with 1200 grit between coats. 
Once it cured for a week I rubbed it out and it came out a lot closer to the buttstock! The bleaching worked great to help match it up to the stock! Not a perfect match, but close enough to be fine for me.

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That looks pretty dang close Vall, I’ve seen some more mismatched from the factory than that one and I bet you have too. What is the tip made out of? That looks very close to an original. Well done.

I am surprised it doesn't have set triggers. If so wished could they be added? Good job on the match. I have been trying to match a dark stock on a J Braddel and sons 10ga double shotgun I too purchased without a forearm. By the way what is up with everyone losing forearms? Called Treebone Carving and George sent me a couple darker walnut blocks to make a forearm. Got it fitted but can't find a stain dark enough to match the stock. I am afraid a second coat will be too dark. May try thinning the stain and do two coats.


JMH

For oxalic acid to work best you need sunlight. Applied outside and give it thirty to sixty minutes in the sun to work. You'll see the difference. But always sneak up on the color in stages as some woods can wash out quickly if you go too far. 

I might add there is product called ' Bar Keepers Friend ' used on sinks, stainless bowls and the like. It contains oxalic acid and will bleach wood but it's not nearly as strong. 

Rick

Oxalic acid is also a excellent, fairly genital, rust remover. You can leave parts in it for days and it won't hurt steel or cast iron.

marlinguy wrote on Jul 28^th, 2025 at 11:04am:


Honestly I think you were following the smart approach. Go too far and you'll over bleach and burn the wood. Your way is to come at it incrementally which to my way of thinking is just smarter. 

Rick

frnkeore wrote on Jul 28^th, 2025 at 12:43pm:


Thanks Frank! I might have a need for that sooner than another stock. It might get used up on old hotrods I work on instead!

This thread has some good info on using wood bleach in finishing sticks:  (You need to Login or Register to view media files and links)