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Deadeye Bly
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Re: Ballard hammer
Reply #15 - Apr 10th, 2025 at 8:51am
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If the drawings are from the Ballard Rifle Co. they are practically worthless. I tried to make a Ballard hammer from the drawings and could not get the dimensions to match anywhere close enough for a waterjet program. Had to entirely redraw it. SSShooter had some set triggers made from the drawings and the rear trigger was close but the front triggger was no where near correct. They are pretty and should be used as reference only as many dimensions are not correct.
  
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marlinguy
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Ballards may be weaker,
but they sure are neater!

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Re: Ballard hammer
Reply #16 - Apr 10th, 2025 at 10:32am
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Original Ballard hammers varied in shape and notches over the many years Marlin made them. I have 4 spares and if I put a screw through the hammer hole and align the notches every one of the hammers sit at a different angle. And hammer shapes also varied over the years in design shapes.
  

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jhm
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Re: Ballard hammer
Reply #17 - Apr 10th, 2025 at 7:18pm
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What would be a good material to make one from? 8620 or A1 or A2 etc...?




JMH
  
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Deadeye Bly
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Re: Ballard hammer
Reply #18 - Apr 11th, 2025 at 9:29am
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O-1 would be a good choice for making a hammer. Readily available, easy to heat treat. Would get plenty hard enough in the sear area and can be tempered for toughness in the rest of it. 8620 would need to be case hardened and the air hardening tool steels are more complicated to harden unless you have an atmospheric controlled furnace.
  
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ssdave
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Re: Ballard hammer
Reply #19 - Apr 11th, 2025 at 10:09am
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I'd concur with O-1.  I made some hammers and triggers years ago out of "sheffield steel", which is essentially O-1.  As I noted in my post before, you have to draw them out after quenching, or they will be too hard and chip.   

If I could get it in the right thickness, I'd also try 4140 pre-hard, if I was going to blue and not case it for finish.  I think it'd be close to right, as is, and wouldn't require heat treat.  It'd be a compromise though, the sear wouldn't be quite as hard as I'd like.

If you are going to case color the hammer, 8620 would be a good choice.  I might add carbon to the sear area with Casenite before the case color though.  O-1 and other higher carbon steels would be too brittle after case hardening.
  
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Chuckster
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Re: Ballard hammer
Reply #20 - Apr 11th, 2025 at 12:56pm
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Have had the best luck for hammers and sears using mild steel or 8620, casehardened. Never worn through the casehardening.
Never got the knack of heat treating 4140 for hammers and sears. Either too brittle or too soft. Suspect O-1 would be the same.
Chuck
  
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