I have a Remington Rolling Block , mod 1902 I think, in 7 x 57. It has a headspace problem which is normal from what I understand. Years ago, when I was shooting it, I found a work-around by shooting cast bullets that were seated far enough out to lightly engage the rifling and keep the case head tight against the breechblock, thereby fireforming the case to the chamber. 
I havent shot that rifle lately and was thinking that maybe I should correct the headspace problem. I assume this can be done by turning the barrel back one or two turns and re-cutting the chamber. 

I would appreciate the benefit of your collective wisdom as to whether the headspace is something I should be concerned about, what the complications and unintended consequences might be, and other options. Rifle has original wood that has been re-finished, otherwise in good or very good original condition. 

Thanks!
Joe

The 7mm Spanish had a slightly different shape that our current 7x57. What I did when I was shooting mine was to put a wrap of electrical tape around the head of new brass. This was enough to hold the case against the block for the first firing and center it in the chamber so that on firing the bulge that developed in the case would henceforth center the brass in the chamber. After that, I would do neck sizing only (staying away from resetting the shoulder!) and everyone was happy. In spite of its barrel looking well worn and smooth it would shoot lights out with 160 grain Normas. The action, suitably modified by Higginbotham, now sits on a 50-70 hunting rifle.

All good advice so far.  What I would do is a combination of things:

1)  I'd determine if the breechblock is square with the chamber.  Chamber an unfired new piece of brass, and using feeler gauges, check the distance from the breechblock to head of case, to see if it varies top to bottom.  You can maybe look through towards a light, and see the gap to compare also.

2)  If it isn't square, then check the hammer and block pins for wear and measure the holes.  They should all be .457".  I've seen very few that were worn enough to matter, but it's possible.

3)  If the pins are tight and it's not square, then you're into some work to square it.  You're best bet then would be to send it to Curt Hardcastle and ask him to make it right.  He'd be a good candidate to fix the pins if they're worn also.

4)  If it's square or pretty close (I'd say <.002" top to bottom of cartridge) then look to fireforming to fix the problem.

5)  Any of the methods of fireforming suggested above would work fine.  After fireforming, only neck size just enough to let the brass chamber.  Index the headstamps on the brass the same each time to account for any teper from fireforming against a not square block.

I think the dimensions of the cartridge were originally slightly different, or they chambered them generously to allow corroded or dirty cartridges to still work.  I don't recall seeing an original that modern ammo fit well.

If you decide to set back and rechamber, no real pittfalls to that, other than usual adjusting fit of wood, refitting extractor, etc. 

If everything in the action is good the chamber can be lined and a new chamber cut. This save the problems of setting the barrel back.

Thanks everyone for you replies!
I have decided to fire form my brass and live with it
If I decide I am no longer satisfied with that I know what my options are!
Thanks!

BTDT. Rebarreled it to 38-55.