How many?    I think stocks are like music. All the best have been done already but I'll never refuse to look at something new. Okay, I'm in. 

I’d like to see how you go about this.
Bob

I'd love to see it.  Can use all the help I can get!

Grand slam, I'd love to see it!  I've got a big old block of wood that need to be a Hepburn stock someday.

Regards,
Joe

yes  art

Count me in!

You bet Rich. Am working on a Schuetzen stock for my P-70 air rifle to go into...or I should say keep pulling out the rough drawing  and contemplate.  To much to do so little time!

Go for it. Particularly interested if it is a pistol grip stock.
Chuck

I'm always interested in seeing how guys build stocks from scratch; especially traditional style stocks.

  A heap o' stir but no biscuits.

Stock design
This is the way I design and lay out a pistol grip design stock. I use a thick paper,  around .015” to .025”,  (available from Michael’s or Hobby Lobby),  this allows the patter to be somewhat durable and thick enough for a template to trace the pattern outline to the sock blank.
To start, we use the above paper to layout an accurate 1:1 drawing of the action., including trigger. We need to establish the bore centerline on this action template in order to get an accurate transfer , remember, the face of the action is perpendicular to the bore centerline, knowing this make it easier to layout and. transfer to the actual pattern. The more accurate the drawing the better. 
From Michael’s or Hobby Lobby pick up a pad of recycled sketch paper 14” X 17” this inexpensive paper let’s you practice on and also correct errors before actually drawing on the thicker card stock..
Start by drawing the bore centerline on the top portion of the paper as shown. Transfer the the action template outline by lining up both bore centerlines. I cut out a small square in the action template to help line thing up. See photo.
To be continued..

Thanks,  I am also interested in this thread...and all of your projects.

In general, pistol grip stocks are straight grip stocks with the pistol grip grafted on. Classic stocks are for the most part designed for offhand shooting with considerable drop at the heel. This makes a stock that is not the best design for prone and bench rest shooting. The way to correct this is to get the heel of the stock higher to the bore line ( the bore line, or the extended bore line will be our reference datum line for design), another datum point is the face of the trigger, front trigger on a double.

I

The next step is to determine the drop of the heel. Drop of heel on a shotgun is normally made using the top plane of the rib,  but in rifles I like to get them fairly high  say 1” to 1 1/2l  and about 3/4” to the top of the butt plate heel and around 3/4” at the comb nose. 
Drop two lines perpendicular to the bore centerline, lightly draw one through the face of the trigger the second at the LOP. Lines A and B in the drawing photo.

Establishing the comb line comes next, these dimension comes from measuring down from the extended bore centerline. The next dimension we next is the length of the butt plate, they are  normally 4 3/4” to 5” in length.
Comb line can run parallel to the bore centerline or in heavy recoiling rifle they can slope downhill from the heel of the buttplate. Establishing the comb line first  allows us to establish the position of the butt plate with the butt plate position established we can then place the lower stock line from butt plate toe to the action.
The photo below shows the comb line set in with the dimensions and the LOP vertical line.

If we draw a line from the toe of the butt plate to the bottom of the action and just aft of the trigger we have basically a straight grip stock. Rifles that have extended straight grip lower tangs can create problems. With a straight grip tang, the lower stock line is an extension of that tang and in most cases that tang extension angle is much lower than the line just drawn. This means that the toe of the butt plate along with the butt plate to be lower. This in turn lowers the drop at the heel. One of the ways that problem was solved is with the “perch belly stock”. That is why you see them mainly on Schuetzen  rifles, they want to get that cheek piece high, raising the butt plate does that.
If the action has a pistol grip lower tang or you bend the lower tang as I did on my Winder action, that solves the problem. In the photo below you can see the lower stock line and the end of the lower tang. A darker perpendicular line marks the end of the tang. I’m going to throw in a few numbers, that are not “carved in stone” just to give a base line for someone new at this. For this I’ll use a compass and the pivot point will be the center front of the trigger. These numbers will locate the the forward point of the pistol grip and nose of the comb. Now, extend slightly the upper and lower tang. Keep the curve of the lower tang while extending it. The extended lines are in red. And the important intersections are circled in blue.

I must say, that’s the best explanation I’ve seen on how to arrive at the beginning of the comb and the pistol grip. I usually just copy originals, more or less. Much more satisfying to have a method.