I would like to know how to setup a hammer/trigger relationship correctly. I have used set triggers all my life and missed the very basic skill of cutting the hammer notch and the trigger in direct contact.

I have some knowledge regarding Winchester Highwall single triggers.

Hammer , sear, knockoff, trigger and related springs.
plus hole size + location  and pins.

like any mechanical device it's all inter-related
but once understood is fairly straight forward!

if you need help with a Winchester single trigger I will share a
cad file with you that shows the geometric relationships I use.

as a general rule the engagement angle of the sear should
"push" the corresponding notch .001 or so to fire the gun.
the wrong angle achieves the accidental discharge quite nicely,
when closing the gun or handling shock or vibration 

triggers are rather critical so do your due diligence

Cordially,
Mark

after any trigger work 

clean , lubricate and safety test extensively ...
a subject to lengthy to cover here

always pay attention to muzzle direction and potential results of a discharge

The trigger tip should be 90 degrees to the pivot point of the trigger. The notch in the hammer should be 90 degrees to the trigger pivot point. The pivot point of the hammer does not matter. Same hold true with a martini and the cocking lever. Both hammer and trigger should be hardened to reduce drag. When both parts are hardened it is possible to get a full size Remington rolling block under 2 pounds. Changing the angle on the hammer notch very slightly can reduce trigger pull. I usually use carbide end mills to cut both parts, give a very smooth surface on hard parts.

I went to "The Single Shot Exchange" website and Lee Shaver has an Article he wrote about Triggers.  Worth reading and a Thank You to Lee for sharing.

That's a great article and thanks for mentioning it Davis!
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Regards, 
Joe

pic

I wish I'd thought of that.!

bpjack wrote on Jun 1^st, 2023 at 11:14pm:


If the trigger and the hammer are both attached to the receiver it's self, it is likely that they could be attached to the exterior of the receiver using the same pins and screws, making the relationship easy to see. On the hand, if the hammer is attached to the breech block (winchester), that will not work and you will need to cut your old hi-wall apart to see the relationship; an image I will try very hard to get out of my mind!

Nice work on the block HarrisHighwall.  I wish that I could claim to be an old school machinist, but alas, I am just an old hobbyist.

On the vise sear stoning jig, the only time it has failed me was on an M1 carbine.  There is some odd geometry on the carbine hammers, and they need some camming to avoid going full auto.

The vise can be used as a fixture for stoning the trigger as well, I just don’t have a picture handy.  The setup is the same, except the engagement surface is made to just barely stick out the side of the vise.  The vise is then rotated so that the trigger sear engagement surface is up, and it is stoned parallel with the vise.  I generally the break the trailing edge slightly at about a 45 degree angle which has the same effect as making the hammer notch more shallow.