I have Al Springer do color case for me, so the only thing I do when the parts come back is warm them with my heat gun, and then apply paste wax so it melts in well. Then wipe them off and buff with a soft cloth.
A couple decades ago I tried the spray on clear finish and it looked good. But after a few years it showed handling marks on the clear, so I stripped it with acetone and just waxed the receiver.

Thanks GT and Marlinguy!  I've gotten some reds and pinks without the addition of oxygen in the past.  Maybe its my lower elevation (220ft).   By the way GT, please do highjack this thread!  I learn and incorporate much of what I read here. 

Sureshot,
I have a coil in the bottom of my quench tank that I connect shop air to and it runs the entire time I have the oven going, for the last few minutes I shut the shop air off and drop a oxygen hose in the tank and let it bubble. 
Jeff, I don't use any salts.   
Here's pix of a HW I did before using the O2 method, same ingredients.  The  only thing that stands out here, if you look close, I had wrapped wire around the action holding all the parts together.  I saw an action another forum member did that he said he intentionally wrapped wire around it, it's a different feature and adds an interesting pattern, Russ?

From talking with those who do lots of CCH they all tell me shielding is important to obtain good patterns on the parts. So wrapping the wire around that Greg mentioned is one way to get there. Others have told me they space a blank steel plate about 3/8" off larger parts like receivers to get the good patterns, if there aren't other parts adjacent to get the results wanted.

As I threatened, here's a hijack...  First a couple photos of one of my students HW coming out of the quench yesterday.  Had some interesting yellows and blues, not sure why the difference, next post is of my Hepburn, same mix, same quench, same temps, same times...

Beautiful case colors Greg!

Bill,
Are you referring to the Rigby's?  No, but that is how I do them.  I also do one on the bottom as a starting point it's a place to make my mistakes as well as the bottom half of each side - and I make more than my fare share of mistakes!
Greg

Thanks everyone and I apologize to fishoot for the intrusion.
I cased the sear engagement area of the hammer and trigger, face of the block before bluing but that's all.  The 1885 looks really good in his wood but there is definitely some contrast.  Maybe John will post pictures of this assembled? Start his first post?