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Hot Topic (More than 10 Replies) Rust Bluing (Read 2843 times)
marlinguy
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Ballards may be weaker,
but they sure are neater!

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Re: Rust Bluing
Reply #15 - Mar 18th, 2023 at 7:24pm
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jfeldman wrote on Mar 18th, 2023 at 3:06pm:
Vall, any chance of a link to Mr. Springer's video?  And thanks for the thread ssdave!

Regards,
Joe


It used to be on his website, but just looked and I don't see it now.

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He sent a few of us who were interested in his technique copies of link to his video back then. He even offered his solution for sale, and I had a small bottle a very long time ago. But used it up, and I honestly never got results like he's able to do, so I just let him do the important work for me.
  

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Myers
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Re: Rust Bluing
Reply #16 - Mar 18th, 2023 at 8:04pm
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Here's another positive for Al Springer. His rust bluing is amazing. Way better than doing it yourself.
  
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cellargun
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Re: Rust Bluing
Reply #17 - Apr 7th, 2023 at 8:04am
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ssdave wrote on Mar 17th, 2023 at 10:17am:
Did the final cleanup after the 5th cycle, and I'm happy with it. Nice outcome! I’m glad to see that other folks play with the same things I do. I’ve experimented with rust bluing over the last 10 years. As folks have mentioned, each time has had its differences. I have a box made of 1/2” ridged foam long enough to cover a rifle barrel. I support the barrel on a 3/16” steel rod on vee blocks made of scrap wood. A thrift store 3 gallon pot is used for small parts. The lid sits upside down, parts hang from wire on a rack, then the inverted pot is slipped over the whole thing. I don’t use water for humidity, for all the listed reasons. A former boss used a couple paper towels dampened and laid in the bottom of the sweat box. I’ve used that method ever since. The rust builds slow, and is very forgiving, time wise. Except for the initial coat of acid on bare metal, my parts aren’t really orange unless the light hits just right.  I boil, wipe down with paper towels, then thoroughly card with steel wool each time. I’ve tried various numbers of cycles and learned you can bring things back to life, yet not make them look brand new. Differing degrees of sanding, polish, etc., will affect your results.   

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I'm doing some small parts now, barrel bands and sling swivel mounts and grip cap.  They're highly polished, and overnight cool rust barely rusted where the receiver would have had more rust.  They're boiling now, and turned black, will cool rust them again today while I'm at work and boil again this evening.  Learn a bit each time.

  
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ssdave
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Re: Rust Bluing
Reply #18 - Apr 7th, 2023 at 8:40pm
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Finished the buttplate and assembled the rifle.  I'm happy with it.

The sling swivels turned out okay, as did the grip cap and buttplate.  The barrel band refuses to rust evenly, going to repolish it to 400 and try it again, the full buffer polish didn't work out.  Don't know if it's the wax from buffing got in the pores and wouldn't remove, or what, but it won't rust evenly on one side, no matter what I tried.


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curdog
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Re: Rust Bluing
Reply #19 - Apr 7th, 2023 at 9:33pm
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Charles Danner  used to do my rust bluing. He said to never polish beyond 320 grit (I did my own prep).

His bluing was always first class.
  
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ssdave
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Re: Rust Bluing
Reply #20 - Apr 23rd, 2023 at 12:02am
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Finally got the barrel band to blue.  Repolished it with wet/dry, and it still was reluctant to rust.  It would turn slightly gray, and then just sit.  I left it a day at a time, and then boiled.  Gradually got darker.  What seemed to work is when I got it out of the boil/steam cycle, I'd wash it thoroughly with detergent and then go brush it off.  Final product was okay.


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