No bluing or case on this one.  After Diane engraved it, we talked and decided to French Gray everything, which shows off the engraving better than the other options.
Bob

Chris,
Hope your not traveling by foot!   

You’re welcome anytime, NW Iowa….middle of no-where.

John did pretty good work.
Bob

Having been a machinist for 50 years, I read this entire series yesterday and have to say the end result is very impressive. If you don’t mind, I have a few questions. I know you didn’t case color harden the parts, but did you harden them at all? What finish did you use for the wood? And finally, can you explain the what, whys, and wherefores of French gray? 
Thanks, Richard

cellargun wrote on Jun 24^th, 2024 at 7:05am:


Thanks for the questions Richard.

You are somewhat correct in the hardening of the parts.  The frame and breech block are not hardened but then many old guns were not and are still in use today. All the internal parts are case hardened as required for durability.  Like all things we do, there is alway things we would do differently, and this project is no different, but I have no doubts that it’s a safe gun to use, well into the future.  The plan is that it will be in the family and usable long after I’m gone.  The monogram is REW, my grandfathers, mine, my sons and grandsons initials.  While this gun will be used and shot, it will never be a gun that shoots thousands of rounds a year.  

The final wood finish is Chambers oil, sold by Jim Chambers Flintlocks.  The wood is first colored with oil infused with alkanet root.  

As far as the French gray goes I really don’t know how it is done.  But, I wanted a finish to the metal that showed the engraving better than case hardening or bluing.  Diane, the engraver, suggest the French Gray and showed me examples.  She also said its just as durable as bluing, like the fabled Smith and Wesson blue.  I trust her so went that way.
Bob