Sorry I'm a computer troglodyte. It's item number 946221514. I just searched it using that no. and it came up.

Looks like generally Flayderman may be correct.  Looks like most of the pistol rifles were based on the larger frame but some earlier guns used the small frame.  I also read that in the 1920's the pistol was considered more rare than the pistol rifle so they were cutting down the rifles to pistols, I believe this information came from the same as what I have added with these screen shots.  Collectorsfirearms.com  and I hope it won't be a problem showing this info here.

One photo shows a comparison between the large and the small frame pistols and the other photos show features between the two versions of the rifle.

I do differ with the stock attaching on the second version though.  I'll show some picture why in my next post.

To be a bit clearer, the gun I have dimension on, is a rifle and not a pistol.  I believe it to be a second version.
Bob

I got a call from an owner of another original, he took measurement while we were on the phone, most of these cleared up questions I had from the original measurement I had gotten from another gentleman of his gun.   

So I've been working on the plastic prototype action in order to get issues worked out for a working action, and also a set of drawings that will be required in making a real working action from steel.  The plastic has been fun to work with!!

First photo is the action getting shaped up getting ready to add the working features like the lever, hammer, tumbler, firing pin and extractor. 

Second, the lever clearance cut is made and pivot pin located and bored.

3, the cartridge guide/tray cut.  This shows a 32-20 brass laying in it.  Not sure what caliber this thing will be, but I know it will not be a 32-20.  Just had it laying around so I used it for the picture..

4, Showing the lever attached to the beach block.  Laying on the frame is the first link I made.  I ended up making a slightly longer link which gave a bit more clearance inside and letting the block drop slightly lower.  The final lever will look like the one shown in the drawing.

5, Showing the breech block lowered.

I'm now working on the hammer position, tumbler and trigger.  At the same time I'll be figuring out the firing pin setup so the hammer can be shaped accordingly.

Since this gun was not a cartridge gun, it was originally a breech loading percussion, it did not have an extractor so I still don't have clue as to what the extractor will look like.  Hoping something comes up that answers this question. The firing pin and this issue is the biggest reason for the prototype action.  If anyone has some ideas, for an extractor, I sure would like to hear them, PM me if you would  please.
Bob

Bruce, Lots of if’s yet on this project, but if I get the bugs worked out, I told Rodney he could make molds from it if he wants to.
Bob

Bob, Understand Solid Modeling is the way to go with CAD, but this is taking it to extremes.
Keep up the good work. I like what you are doing.
Chuck

Not real exciting....but decided to start on this thing.  Now cutting steel rather than plastic!  Now threaded for a barrel and the breech block mortise is done

Since I didn't have a piece of 8620 wide enough, used what I have.  But, had to add some steel to have something to hold on to.  The added pieces will not be part of the finished gun.
Bob

The first photo is the finished and polished nose. 

Second I'm getting setup to cut the taper to the rear of the frame.  The pointed center finder was handy for getting this setup done.  The layout line are exactly the same on each side of the frame, allowing accurate placement between the two sides.  The line going somewhat straight to the right, is the measured end of the frame.....from there back, it's all tang.  The line running toward the lower left is the bore center line.  The short line running to the lower right is the angled frame line, 60 degrees from horizontal.  The location the center finder is pointing at will become the top, most rear point of the frame.

3, showing the frame line.  Lots of metal to remove.

4, like I said lots of metal.  I have cut the depth, to what will be the two tangs final width.

5, the rear section of the frame is narrower than the front.  This picture is showing the narrowing being completed.  It will become the area the trigger, lock parts and hammer shaft will fit into.
Bob

I know almost nothing about machining, but I'm really enjoying your build and the great explanations of the steps to make this Sharps! 
Thanks!