With the fun shoot we had Saturday, along with a presentation on Longrifles and my family history on Tuesday, I haven't got much done on this rifle the past week.  So, I finally decided to go ahead and tackle the replacement hammer.

These three photos just show the progression of shaping the hammer.   

This hammer is much lower than the first.  I also turned/angled the spur out about .060 more than the original hoping for more clearance under a scope.
Bob

Making a hammer for a gun that is already setup with the half cock and full notches cut into the tumbler is not to much fun.  While I would do it again, if I had to, I sure wouldn’t enjoy it.
Bob

calledflyer, I agree.

I think it was just a little early in its development to be fully appreciated.  A few years later, after cartridges had fully developed, and it might have been a hit.

I took the gun to the fun shoot and put 40 rounds through it without any issues.  Never put it on paper there, we shot gongs, but the guy spotting said every round on a gong at 130 yards hit approximately the same place.

I did put it on paper a few days before the shoot to get it on paper and somewhat centered.  This photo is 8 of the first 10 shots, first two where getting it on the target, at 25 yards.  I know its not that impressive but, I was surprised since the bullets were given to me and I just threw the load together and not really serious about it.  All I really wanted to do was shoot the gun, in order to get some rounds through it, and check it out.  So far 80 loaded rounds and 15 primer only shots have fire without issues.
Bob

Like others, I also like the new hammer better. It just seems to fit the little Sharps better aesthetically for me.

Thanks Guys, it is a much better looking hammer.   
Also....Bill, thanks for correcting me.

Never thought about what was on that ruler Chuck.  It's followed me through three jobs over 42 years, then into retirement and still being used!  Not really attached to it, it was alway just loaded up and taken to the next desk. That started in 1974, it was used then, so you are correct in the dating of it.

Today I got up the courage to get the stop for the lever pin installed in the forearm wood.  I've been contemplating how I was going to do this for quite some time.  I originally thought it was spring loaded, but after talking with the guys that own the originals I found out there is nothing on the inside of the forearm and they are not spring loaded.  You just push the lever over/past the stop.

First and second photos,  After figuring out where the stop need to be in the forearm, I set it up in the mill vice.  Using a 1/16 inch end mill I cut a slot .170 deep in the forearm.

So what was the best way to hold the small metal stop in the wood?  One option was epoxy, but I wasn't crazy about that, and really wanted it mechanically fastened, I was afraid the epoxy would release the stop, over time, from wood movement.  Thought about a pin on the inside but ruled that out also because there isn't much room back there.

Photo 3,  I ended up using a similar method I use to hold inlay nails in Longrifle stock.  I form saw teeth in the edge of a brass and silver nails, and once in, a nail resists coming back out.  I used a sharp chisel and formed the saw teeth in the ends of the stop.  This can be seen in this picture.  Also in this photo can be seen a slight taper to the stop.  Once the lever is pushed up on the stop, for removal of the pin, it come free quickly as it is turned forward.  When putting back, it starts easily on the stop from the front.

This last photo shows the finished stop and lever.

Bob, there are going to be a lot of us out here waiting, just like you will be, for the return of your terrific little rifle. When you reveal it to us here we will perhaps be ears-deep in watching your next project take shape. Thanks for all of this. It's real good reading and viewing.

I've enjoyed every step along your build Bob, and looking forward to seeing what Diane does on the engraving, and of course the finished rifle!