Treebone wood, should get you started.

Wood blanks from CPA Rifles for Rolling Blocks (after I sanded).

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Pistol grip stock designed for straight tangs of Model 1 Remington Rolling Blocks (without bending) to slide in.

Remington Walker forearm.
Provide dimensions of your octagon barrel and the channel will be cut to fit.

Both were ordered with upgraded wood

Schuetzendave wrote on Jan 2^nd, 2022 at 11:20am:

+1  CPA does an excellent job on wood. Is always nicer then I am expecting in my experience.

Retreever wrote on Aug 26^th, 2022 at 6:14pm:


Here's a series of posts I did a few years back on a bolt action stock.  Had one here on a high wall stock, but since we changed to the new forum.assra URL can't find any old posts anymore.

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Main thing is get the tangs started in on the stock at the angle you want it to end up, and use inletting black or lipstick or something on the tangs to show you where to take away excess wood.  Don't get tempted to try to tap the stock on when it's too tight, the tangs will split the stock, and then you'll either have to learn how to repair the split, or start over.   

After you get the tangs most of the way in the action, thin the top and bottom of the wrist to just a bit proud of the tangs, to make it easier to see what you're doing.  See this thread I just posted to show some of how to do that:
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Once you get the tangs all the way in till the front of the stock touches the receiver, put inletting black on the receiver, and tap the stock lightly to impress the action face onto the stock, to show you where to take off high spots.   

I'd expect to have that stock blank off and on to the action 50 or more times before you get a decent fit, with each time shaving off a little bit of wood a few thousands of an inch at a time. from the high spots indicated by the inletting black.

On a rolling block, you can slightly speed up the process if the tang recesses are substantially undersize, by taking off the lower tang, laying it over the inletting, and penciling in the outline.  Do the same for the top tang, and then take 95% of the wood away from the inside toward that line before you start using inletting black.  Use sharp chisels, and when you get close, if you don't trust yourself with chisels, use a series of riffler files or hook scrapers to take off the last bit.   

Good Luck!
dave 

Got the forearm and buttstock rough fitted - now for the fine fitting and sanding.

One thing I do when dealing with fitting wood to finished metal is to protect the metal. I cover all the metal surfaces with blue painter's tape, and use two layers. If I happen to nick the top layer I stop and replace it before going on. Once all the surfaces are close enough to be even with the tape, I remove the stocks and do my final sanding, being very careful not to roll over the edges! I use small blocks with sandpaper to help me not round the edges, and keep test fitting the wood to the action to gauge how it's going.
Once it's a nice fit, I do the final sanding with around 350-360 grit, and then apply finish.
I prefer to always do stock work prior to metal finishing, but sometimes it's not possible if the gun is nice enough to leave the metal alone.