I'm thinking the barrel isn't the original to this action. I'm going to fiddle with it a bit with a local gunsmith and see just what needs to be done.  I've already procured a 22LR barrel so we'll get something done.

Capt45, 

I am not 100 percent sure if your problem is that the lever will not close all the way, or if it closes all the way and the lever drops down.

It will make a big difference in the likely problem. And I might have misunderstood.

If you can’t close the lever all the way with the barrel installed. It’s a problem between barrel, block and frame.

If it closes and then is loose and floppy, sagging down, it’s in the pins and link. 

The difference in barrel protrusion between the two I posted is about .020”. Swapping the longer tenon into the shorter action causes the problem of not being able to close the lever all the way. It’s jams the block between barrel and frame.

I think this is what makes most sense because you said the lever closes and stayed closed without the barrel. What you be feeling is looseness in the pins and link allowing the lever to contact tang, but the lever is not camming over on the plunger that puts tension on the link holding the lever in place.

If you pull the barrel, you should be able to feel that cam action where the plunger breaks over the top of the lobe. You can’t feel that in an assembled rifle because it happens at the same time the block is pushing against the breech of the barrel.

In my example of the lever staying in contact with the tang without the barrel, the link rests on the hammer preventing it from dropping, what holds it in place it the tension of the plunger in the lever. 

You can see that contact in the photo below, and the lack of contact in the second photo.

Bob; you're right, the block doesn't change position from #2 to #3.  Now, wouldn't that indicate a link that's not right for this action?


bobw wrote on Nov 6^th, 2021 at 11:08pm:

The shallow drilled hole is where the takedown screw engages the barrel as evidenced by black marker.

With the action closed and the barrel set into the receiver (not tightened) there is a gap of .011" between the receiver and the barrel.

Using a feeler gauge I measured the distance the breech of the barrel protrudes through the back of the receiver and it's .042".
Certainly seems to me that the barrel isn't original to this receiver.


bobw wrote on Nov 7^th, 2021 at 11:10am:

Ya, probably the barrel is the issue.  If you could make a U shaped shim that is .008-9 or so thick and install it between the barrel and frame, and hopefully still somewhat tighten the barrel screw, you could see if the barrel shank shortening would work.  I would hope the breech block would close and lever was against the tang at that point.  If you do try this, check to see if the block is tight, top to bottom, against the barrel.  If it is and you have an empty shell case see where the firing pin is striking the case head.  The above is only for diagnosing the issue not shooting the gun.

You could possibly just cut the rim recess deeper without cutting the chamber deeper, may only be talking .008-9.  But without gauging it I would not want to say for sure.

I probably don’t need to say this but will anyway.  If a gunsmith is going to fix this gun make sure they understand shingle shots, or find someone like John Taylor to do the work properly.

Got my new 22LR barrel and placed it in the action.  Sets in the action correctly.  Had to remove the extractor because the action would not close with the extractor in place.  Slot in the 22LR barrel is to narrow. New extractor is on order.
UPDATE: Apparently nothing to get excited about; I put the old barrel back in the receiver and it too locks up tight WITH the Lever tight to the tang.  Must have a link problem.

How much difference in barrel tenon length was there in the 22 barrel?