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jimmy
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Reline a chamber?
Sep 3rd, 2021 at 7:27am
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I have relined rimfire chambers but wonder if it is a good idea to reline a centerfire chamber.

Bought a ruger no.3 barrel that was 22 hornet. It has been chambered for 5.7 spitfire. Was hoping to just ream it to 218 bee but the chamber is too big. 

Thinking about lining just the chamber and reaming to the bee. The liner length should end up just short of the bees case length. 

Concerned the bee may be too much pressure. Good or bad idea?
  
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John Taylor
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Re: Reline a chamber?
Reply #1 - Sep 3rd, 2021 at 7:42am
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I have lined several chambers over the years. The liner should be made out of modern barrel steel. I have a trash can full of take off barrels that usually supply what I need. The liner should be the same length or just a bit longer than the brass. The liner should be threaded and screwed in with Loctite ( I learned the hard way that they can move ). Also the liner has to be large enough in diameter to hold the pressure. I did one in 17 Rem. that bulged and had to do it  again ( it was SS which is not as tough as 4140).
  

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mqabbi
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Re: Reline a chamber?
Reply #2 - Sep 9th, 2021 at 4:17pm
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Mr Taylor, I am afraid that I totally disagree with you. Threads & Loctite!! I know that we are living in a modern disposable age, but tradition is usually based on experience and sound engineering principles.

I have been told ( and this is the way I have done it upteen times) to bore and ream the chamber out to 1/3 more than the actual diameter of the new cartridge. Depth should be at the new cartridge length or ideally a millimetre or two shorter. Degrease and flux both the chamber and the insert. Tin both the new insert and the newly bored chamber with lead /tin solder, preferably using non acidic flux, let cool, polish with steel wool to remove excess solder. Gently heat the barrel breach and tap the insert home. If the job has been done properly, one will notice a ring of solder in the bore where the insert meets the barrel bore and some seep at the back of the barrel. That indicates that there are NO voids tween the insert and the barrel proper. Chamber, headspace and you are done. 

This process is not suitable for full auto firearms as the heat might soften or melt the solder  Smiley
  
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JLouis
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Re: Reline a chamber?
Reply #3 - Sep 9th, 2021 at 4:34pm
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Just doesn't make any real sense to me to why anyone would want to do such a thing. I am actually amazed at how many folks drive a vehicle well over $40,000.00 and they probably have two each. But then try to skimp on their own Firearms long term quality of use? That will end up being passed onto somebody else someday not knowing what has been done to the rifles barrel.
« Last Edit: Sep 10th, 2021 at 10:35am by JLouis »  

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jimmy
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Re: Reline a chamber?
Reply #4 - Sep 9th, 2021 at 4:53pm
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Thanks everyone. 

  
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John Taylor
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Re: Reline a chamber?
Reply #5 - Sep 10th, 2021 at 10:16am
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mqabbi wrote on Sep 9th, 2021 at 4:17pm:
Mr Taylor, I am afraid that I totally disagree with you. Threads & Loctite!! I know that we are living in a modern disposable age, but tradition is usually based on experience and sound engineering principles.

I have been told ( and this is the way I have done it upteen times) to bore and ream the chamber out to 1/3 more than the actual diameter of the new cartridge. Depth should be at the new cartridge length or ideally a millimetre or two shorter. Degrease and flux both the chamber and the insert. Tin both the new insert and the newly bored chamber with lead /tin solder, preferably using non acidic flux, let cool, polish with steel wool to remove excess solder. Gently heat the barrel breach and tap the insert home. If the job has been done properly, one will notice a ring of solder in the bore where the insert meets the barrel bore and some seep at the back of the barrel. That indicates that there are NO voids tween the insert and the barrel proper. Chamber, headspace and you are done. 

This process is not suitable for full auto firearms as the heat might soften or melt the solder  Smiley


I have soldered many in but prefer to do it the way I do it now.  I do agree that tinning both parts is important if you use solder.
  

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chipmaker
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Re: Reline a chamber?
Reply #6 - Sep 10th, 2021 at 1:37pm
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There may be many different reasons for lining a chamber. Sometimes it's a desire to keep a highly desirable barrel functional, without visibly changing the barrel. 
I made a barrel with integral rib, sights and sling swivel base, chambered for the 375 H&H Mag. The rifle was eventually rebarreled but with the use of an extension and a liner the barrel is happily serving on a Maynard. Another example, where a short chamber liner might be appropriate, would be a barrel with engraving. Finally, there is considerable satisfaction in simply being able to do a safe chamber lining job.
mqabbi and Mr. Taylor
The few chamber lining jobs, that I've done, seem to be a combination of your methods. I like the threaded/Loctite method of Mr. Taylor but have always wanted the new cartridge to end just forward of the new liner. I wanted to avoid any possibility of pressure damage at the liner to barrel joint.
Otto
  
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Deadeye Bly
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Re: Reline a chamber?
Reply #7 - Sep 10th, 2021 at 8:45pm
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I've lined quite a few chambers for various reasons from 22 rimfire up to.50 caliber Maynards. I've never soldered one. I use 680 loctite and a slight press fit. I've never had one come loose. Like Mr. Taylor I use modern 4140 steel which is stronger than the barrel steel used in most older rifles. I generally want the joint to be behind mouth of the cartridge but it is not always possible. I've never done a modern high pressure cartridge just black powder or 22 rimfire cartridges.
  
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