JB weld?  epoxy?  the blocks on the barrel.   I'd try it on a old barrel first.

Quote:


This will work, but the heavier the scope, the greater is the possibility that the epoxy might suddenly let go--which happened to me, and it was mighty distressing.  If the scope is only attached when shooting at a range, this danger is minimized.

But I had no trouble removing the epoxy residue without harming the blue by using heat & lacquer thinner.

Steve Earle makes a bar that is 8" or so long with holes for the bases drilled and tapped in the bar on a spacing of 7.2".  I got a few.  I just use Acraglas colored black to attach the bar to the barrel and away I go.  I've never had one let go.  But I never have my scope on the rifle until in is in the rest.

When and if you want the bar off, give it a whack with a mallet and it is off.  Removing any glass still stuck to the barrel is an easy process.  Can't make myself drill and tap an original barrel.
Phil

If I was mounting a Unertl with a glued on bar would add a couple of zip ties as insurance. Fly off and break cost big bucks.

Boats

Rare earth magnets are fine by me, but I can see some discussion forming about the molecular structure of the barrel's frisben surfaces contaminating the fluid dispersal of the sludge orbits in the powder residue off to the side, where it'll do the most harm. This, of course, is not much trouble to the offhand shooter in a wind storm on a sub-freezing morning, but can disperse the anti- coagulants on the lower barrel lands while shooting off the bench. Makes the bullet fly different if the lube contains iron shavings or Hershey's milk chocolate. Of, course, there could be some more serious reasons to avoid magnets, but I haven't explored all the facets of this. 

If the targets are at magnetic north shooting lead bullets,  none of that will matter.  Of course shooting copper jacketed  bullets through a magnetic field will certainly disqualify the shooter since the resulting high voltage bullet would be an electrical device and they are barred for use in the rules.  Should be ok for electrocuting varmints, deer and other game animals.  Should be a great advantage in winter to have a hot meal precooked when the skinning is completed.

Mine is  nonferrous 

Yeah, It can.  I still think a rare earth magnet has a lot of potential.  They can be had in  very powerful compact sizes.

Some of those little rare earth  magnets will take 50# of force to break them free.  They could be used in conjunction with Accuraglass or JB Weld to give the glue supplemental support.

Sorry we got in the way of your perpetual grouchiness, Red.

calledflyer wrote on Feb 21^st, 2018 at 11:35am:


Rein in the puerile chatter, and you won't have to suffer it.

Actually, I own a pair of magnets that are about an inch square and are powerful enough that several people have given themselves blood blisters while trying to separate them. They were used as activators for a safety circuit to shut off a ski lift in the event of a derailed cable. Mighty powerful, to withstand the rigors of lousy weather, motion and idiot maintenance. 
I still don't think that they are a good solution to a scope mounting problem. I think I prefer the adhesive if I didn't want to drill for some reason.
And, I like to have fun with my friends, so kidding is liable to return from moment to moment. Carry on.

Call me a poop if you wish
Thank you...poop.
Aaron

I know what "puerile" means too.
It's really a shame you need to bother people for having a bit of fun.
you still don't control the forum, but you are getting very boring.
glad you have no problem with air-headed and grouchy, poop
Aaron

Red, 
It's too bad your intense depression has caused you to make your recent series of snarky comments, especially unwarranted outside of off topic.
This is counter-productive and bad for the forum.
Someone has to be the bigger man here, as it's obviously not you, I'll do it. Take your last cheap shot, everyone knows a little poop like you can't resist.
out,
Aaron

Any action taken with epoxy will require a very clean surface for effective bonding. As several replies have noted, the cleaning and surface treatment will show as a different spot from the rest of the barrel. 

Before the days of true pistols scopes , a project to bond a Weaver K4 with a Litschert Long Eye Relief adaptor to a Ruger Blackhawk .30 Carbine required us to remove all the blueing. This was a noticeable bright spot. And, after several cylinders of full- house loads, the scope popped off the barrel. 

Despite the added cost, consider a new barrel for shooting since you can set it up as you want. When done, you can reinstall the original barrel. The cost of a new barrel and installation will probably be equivalent to a custom scope mount solution.

pmcfall wrote on Feb 27^th, 2018 at 9:47am:


Certainly is on high-power handguns--just to prevent the scope from sliding in the rings requires an extra ring and/or rosin, Locktite, etc., inside the rings.  However, an epoxied mount has stayed on a Ruger .22 I have for over 30 yrs.  Not that I've used it a great deal--quickly found that even a 2.5X scope was too jittery except from a rest.