I have built quite a few rifles over the years and like Mr Pope I am not a big fan of any feature that doesn't add to accuracy but if they are tastefully done can add to the appearance of most any firearm. And sometimes I do it just for the challenge.I have a Stevens 45 I would like to have a small amount of engraving done but when I asked about pricing found it to be quite expensive so guess it will have to wait.


JMH

jhm wrote on Feb 18^th, 2018 at 7:30pm:


For God's sake, wait until you can afford the best!  2nd rate engraving--for all practical purposes--is as bad as the very worst!  I found this out the hard way.

This project is coming along and it may be mostly ready by the time summer season starts (hopefully further than many I compete with- a finished cheek piece).  Trying to make up my mind - ebony forend cap or a simple horn inlay?  The wood will be dark when it's finished.  Thoughts?
Greg

I had a little fight with the link, breech block and firing pin alignment.  Thought a simple calculation and I'd have it, with the link I had first, it just barely caught the rim, it fired but I wanted a little more contact and the block could afford to come up more.  I made another as per the original design, lengthening the centers  about .006". not as much change as I expected.  Made several simple links after that and I'm still not sure what my issue was, final difference in the links start to finish was almost .030".   
It's been a couple years since my last high wall build and that was a centerfire, but I remember the movement being a direct proportion to the change in the link centers, what am I missing?   

Chuck, when I saw the action with the close coupled set triggers it became something I had to have, even with everything it was missing, (coil spring, lever, link, firing pin, breech block, screws...)  - and yes I think it's going to end up with a ebony forend cap.
 
The Rigby flats are growing on me, thinking there's another one on the list. 
Greg

Old-Win,

I don't believe any of this was originally together, the patina doesn't match    First the LW has holes drilled for the side mounting sights, and something about it tells me from the finish and such that is was originally made as a winder musket - doesn't have the flaming cannonball though... I have two like this. The Winders were made beginning around 1904/05, this tang has a serial # 12,XXX placing it somewhere '86/'87?  Another thing about the tang is the extra holes that exist for the single trigger, so I think the close couple sets were done later - very well done, maybe by Winchester.  So this is another Frankenwall I seem to gravitate towards them.   

It's hard to tell from the picture I posted, the lever is one I cobbled together.  I had several pieces and one that a bubba had scabbed together trying to make a double set lever.  I don't like the standard lever fit (like they were originally) and trying to get your finger in to set them, I made mine about a 3/8" shorter than the standard length double set lever, so it's different.
Greg

Here's an adjustable test link that I made up when my firing pin strike was not correct. Make one link, test, adjust, test again, maybe adjust and test again. Measure the hole distance and make the final link or have MVA make it, like I did. Turned out perfect (or nearly so).

Hepburnman I just gave myself a headache with the head slap I did when I saw your adjustable link. I am copying it and telling all my friends that I thought it up thanks for posting,

Zack T

Well, GT and others, feel free to copy away. I shared it to share. 

I originally made that link one piece and took a stab at what I thought the hole spacing should be and got it way wrong. When I was then faced with making another,that would probably be wrong too, it was then that I thought maybe make it adjustable - drilled it down the center for a pin. drilled and tapped for set screws, and then used a slitting saw to cut it in half.

"You don't know what you can do until you try"! - Runaway Train - John Voight