I plan to make a single set trigger for a Stevens 44. I'd rather not experiment with the  original trigger, therefore I'm in need of a couple of triggers to modify.  Knowing they may be somewhat hard to find, are the triggers the same across several models?  Is the 44 trigger the same as the 44-1/2 or the 414?  They all look the same but the dimensions may be different.  Any help would be appreciated.  Thanks.

Wayne

The Stevens single-set trigger is very uncommon.  In the Stevens catalogs it was offered as an option for the 44-1/2, and the mechanism was on a separate trigger plate like the double-set triggers, held by the three screws in the bottom of the receiver.

With the help of a fellow member, who supplied the pictures, I wrote the mechanism up for one of the ASSRA Journals (can't remember the issue number).  I found later that somebody had written the mechanism up earlier than that.  Also, I think there are drawings, either on this Forum or available from the Archives.  A search should bring them up, unless they have been Photobucketed.

I don't remember details at this late date, and the draft, if it still exists, is on my big computer, not this tablet, but it looked, at minimum, like the original single trigger needed half its upper portion milled away for the set trigger sear, which pivoted (IIRC) on the same pin as the trigger did.  There were a couple extra springs that needed placement, and the drilled and threaded hole in the trigger for the adjustment screw.  The hammer, of course, needed the fly in the slot that came stock on the 44-1/2, but not on the 44.

I would think you would need to mill out the lower tang on your 44 for a separate trigger plate.  It might be possible to insert a single-set mechanism into the solid receiver and tang, but it would be  like building a ship in a bottle as far as added complication.

Wayne, 
The single set on my Stevens 44-1/2 appears to have the same measurements as a trigger from a 44 project I have going.  The trigger has a considerable amount of material removed from different regions to make it a functioning single set.  My current 44-1/2 with the single set is suffering from broken springs which I am told is a very common issue with these, I was also told they were a feature discontinued because of it.
I am sure you are aware that the 44-1/2 has a removable tang  and from my observations if one was to try and machine a section out of a 44 to make plate for a single set it may compare to rebuilding an engine all from the exhaust port.  Maybe not quite that bad...
Here's a couple pictures side by side.

Below are the instructions for the modification which does not require a separate trigger plate, only relieving the rear of the trigger slot and drilling/tapping a hole for mounting the set trigger spring.  The modification to the original trigger slot for the adjustment screw is pretty simple, could be easily done by hand with a rounded file, and may not be necessary if the screw is shortened so that it does not extend out of the trigger body.

RSW, I had considered a double set trigger solution, but it would require extensive milling of the trigger slot and also replacing the lever to allow room for the two triggers, not an acceptable solution from my point of view.

GT, thanks for the photos.  They help a lot in visualizing the finished parts.

Wayne

kensmachine wrote on Sep 24^th, 2017 at 6:20pm:


Would have to be in Cat. #50, or earlier; by #51 (1901) only standard triggers were offered for 44s.

kensmachine wrote on Sep 25^th, 2017 at 2:00am:


That gives a time-frame for when it was an available option on 44s, because by Cat. 53 & 54, it was back to standard trigger only.

Based on studying the photos closely, assuming the hammer is held in the cocked position by the separate sear that’s spring loaded, my understanding is as follows:
When the trigger is pushed forward the rounded tip of the pull-weight adjustment screw or the lower forward edge of the slot in the trigger, I’m not clear on which, is rotated clockwise & snaps into a spring-loaded over-center rear position.  When the trigger is then pulled back the tip of the adjustment screw or the lower forward edge of the slot in the trigger, again I’m not clear on which, is rotated counterclockwise and snaps into a spring loaded over-center forward position.  Since the trigger snaps back the upper rear of the trigger snaps up & hits the rear of the sear releasing the hammer.  Therefore the set pull-weight is determined by the set-spring tension and the forward protrusion of the adjustment screw.

I also struggled with how it works &, as noted, I’m still not comfortable with my understanding.  But the above is the best description I can come up with.  If anyone else has a better understanding or description, please respond.  Chuckster, I don’t know that I’d refer to it as a “…self setting over center design”, but it’s clearly a spring-loaded over-center design from my point of view.

Wayne

John Taylor wrote on Sep 26^th, 2017 at 9:17am:


John,

I definitely agree with you if original triggers are not available. But I did locate a couple of triggers & since I don't have a milling machine, with a hack saw, grinder, file & drill press, I should be able to modify the triggers as described in the directions.  And even if I had a mill it would be significantly easier and faster starting with two triggers.

BTW, if I had high confidence that a "hand job" would work, only one trigger is required in addition to the one in the rifle.  But I'd prefer to keep the original trigger just in case...

Wayne