Would it be possible to use a laser to build up the surface, then anneal, then fit to shape, then case harden? That seems to be a straight-forward way of doing it.

Hello!

These ideas about welding techniques are interesting but, as note by graduated peep, can actually be unworkable because of mismatched metals. When one of the metals is from long ago, what is accuracy and precision of information about its composition, etc.?

Making a totally new part from one peice of metal of known suitable properties seems a more certain way to go. 

Regards,
Grisen

I haven't had a mill for about 10 years; I disassembled it to move it and have never taken the time to set it back up.

But, when I had the mill, I made parts that were single plane (such as hammers and triggers) with relative ease by simply freehand milling the outline after scribing it onto the surface.  Kind of like running an etch a sketch when you were a kid.  You get a feel for the knobs pretty quickly, and can follow the lines with relative ease and precision.  Of course, some file work when you were done to get it finished.

A jewelers saw is relatively quick also, but costs a few dollars worth of blades.  Then again, I spent an apprenticeship in a gold manufacturing trade shop, learnt a lot of cutting, filing and polishing skills there that make something like cutting a hammer out somewhat routine for me, that might not be for someone else.

dave

I TIG welded my 44 hammer. Then case hardend. Apears to work fine.

Larry

Quote:


Hi Larry --

This entire proposition concerning the desirability of having a so-called "lugged" hammer in a J.Steven Model 44 action just may be a "tempest in a teapot" for lots of folks who are running by the seat of their trousers.

It certainly makes for interesting, albeit alarming, conversation.  However, any one who is in possession of a J. Stevens Model 44 rifle with a barrel chambered for the .38 caliber; or, such as  yourself, has the same rifle, is definitely going down a pathway that can only lead to the most unwise of territories.

I am not a gun smith, however, I am will studied and versed in the errors of human thought, and or the absence thereof.

Give some thought, if you will, to becoming aware of the reasons behind the decision made by the J Stevens firearms action designers to drop the Model 44 action, and in its, place substitute the Model 44 1/2.

My above comments are predicated upon your decision to shoot your J.Steven M-44, and the possibility that a subsequent and owner may unknowingly shoot it.

Thanks Larry!

You have same basic rational as I for wanting a lugged hammer -- greater safety margin, more durable lockup. 

How much are you willing to share with us about how you modified an original Stevens hammer into a lugged hammer?

Even if I do have a lugged hammer installed, I doubt that I will  exceed by much, if any, the SAMMI max pressure for 32-20 (16.000 psi). Initial test shooting and collection of industry published pressure data suggest suitably small grouping target loads may have chamber pressures more like 12.000 - 14.000 psi for 100-130 gr bullets at 1300-1100 fps. For higher pressure/velocity hunting loads (perhaps up to 20.000 psi and 1700fps) I have an original Winchester LW hunting rifle that puts first few shots of HV 32-20 loads into subMOA groups.

Regards,
Grisen

I agree with Mr. Holland. A wire EDM would cut the hammer to very precise tolerances, on the order of .0002" or better. A good shop would probably have a way to digitize an original hammer. Leave some additional mat'l on the lug for fitting, checker it, heat treat it and you're good to go. Make 10 and sell 9 blanks to pay for yours.

I pestered an old, old friend whose machine shop contains a wire EDM.    He turned me down flat because (he says) he isn't licensed to make gun parts.  ANY gun parts.

Wire EDM is pretty slow, BTW.  Cost would be high.  But it could make the part from already-hardened steel, so the cost of heat treating would be eliminated.