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ledball
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Rem Rolling Block Rifles
Dec 17th, 2011 at 3:16pm
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I have owned, traded, and sold several Rem Rolling blocks but, could someone tell me the difference between a #1 Sporting Rifle and a #1 1/2 Rifle.  ledball
  
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Re: Rem Rolling Block Rifles
Reply #1 - Dec 17th, 2011 at 3:26pm
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The frame was narrower . They were made for low pressure rounds and usually are found with rimfire chambers.  The ones I've seen in shops, gun shows are in very good condition. 

There may be more differences than what I stated.  The barrel shank is probably smaller and the lower tang may be longer and and. Been a long time since studying them.

        Joe.
  

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Re: Rem Rolling Block Rifles
Reply #2 - Dec 17th, 2011 at 4:04pm
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The 1 1/2 is a puzzle. They are much stronger overall than a #2 (in my opinion), you can swap the hammer and breech block between a #1 and a #1 1/2. As I remember, the frame on a #1 is 1 5/16" wide and a #1 1/2 is 1 1/8". 

I have both (1897 & 1 1/2) and I'll take a couple of pics, side by side and some measurements. I also have a 20 ga sporting shot gun that has a even different width frame. 1.23, I think.

Frank
  

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Re: Rem Rolling Block Rifles
Reply #3 - Dec 17th, 2011 at 5:10pm
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Thanks guys, this is very interesting, I bet I'm not the only singleshot nut that didn't know the difference between the #1 and the #1 1/2. The # 1 Military and the # 2 are easy to identify but these other models are confusing.    ledball

  
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Re: Rem Rolling Block Rifles
Reply #4 - Dec 17th, 2011 at 5:58pm
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The guns top to bottom are,
1897, was a 7mm, now a 45/70 frame width 1.311

#1 1/2, 32 rf, frame width 1.140. The breech block that is in it is a BP, CF w/o firing pin. I still have the like new RF one.

Shot gun, 20 ga, Frame width 1.227.

L - R they are Shot gun, #1 1/2 and 1897.

Breech block and hammer width is .720 on all of them.

I didn't pull the guns apart for measurements.

Trigger guard width is .745 - .750 on all three.

Upper tangs measure about the same length at 3.3" on  all three.

Lower tangs lengths are approx. 3.3" on the 1897 & #1 1/2.

Lower tang length on the Shot gun is 4.4"

They are all put away now and I realized that I didn't measure the tang widths but, I'm not getting them back out for that, unless there is some need.

Maybe someone can get there sporter #1 or #5 out and take some measurement on them.

Frank
  

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Re: Rem Rolling Block Rifles
Reply #5 - Dec 17th, 2011 at 5:59pm
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You've already got some conflicting information, and I think that is because what makes a 1 1/2 is not readily defined.  The early rolling blocks had several variations, among what I will call the sporting rifle.  I won't label it #1 or # 1 1/2.

The first sporting rifles, near as I can tell, in large bore calibers, had the same barrel shank as a military rifle.  They had the stepped receiver ring, octagon shape.  They had a long, sculpted trigger guard.  They had a narrower width than the military rifle.  In my belief, all of them had a sporter breech block and hammer, with an acorn shaped shield in it instead of the knurling or checkering of a military hammer/block.  I'm going to digress here on a pet peeve of mine.  I see many early sporter rifles being sold as 100% original with a military breech block.  The seller always says "early RB's had this type of block".  THIS IS A BLATANT FALSEHOOD.  My opinion of the origin of these rifles is the fact that almost all early rolling blocks were rimfire.  Look at the old catalogs and you will see this is a fact.  When those early, large bore rimfires became obsolete, nearly all were replaced with centerfire reloadable versions.  AT THIS TIME, MANY USERS CONVERTED THEIR RIFLES, USING MILITARY PARTS.  Over the years, this has continued, by users wanting to shoot therir rifles, or collectors/dealers/speculators trying to enhance the value by making it have some hope of being usable. 

The next type of sporting rifle that I can clearly define is an early model .22 rimfire.  These early rifles have the same outside dimensions of the frame, tang, etc, but have a slightly smaller barrel shank.  As far as I can tell, that is the only difference, other than being .22 rimfire.   

The next type of sporting rifle is what I call the 1 1/2.  Every version I have owned has been in .22 rf or .32 rf.  I have seen others for sale in larger rimfire, but have not examined them to see what they are.

More in another post   

  
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Re: Rem Rolling Block Rifles
Reply #6 - Dec 17th, 2011 at 6:16pm
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Continuation of my earlier post.

The #1 1/2's I have owned have had lower trigger guards and tangs that are identical to the #1 sporters.  In other words, long and sculpted.  I see the one posted by Frnkeore does not.  I'll speculate on that in a bit.  The #1 1/2's have thinned sides, with no step at the receiver ring.  That narrow frame, octagon top, with no step is the defining feature I use to differentiate a #1 1/2.  The #1 1/2's have a distinctive, smaller, barrel thread diameter.  It is smaller than the #1 rimfire .22's.

There is a third sporter model, that is fairly commonly seen.  That is the 20 gauge shotgun.  It is as shown by Frnkeore in his bottom picture.  It is a military looking frame, but thinned slightly.  Frame is very close to the same width as the #1 1/2 sporter, but top ring is round.  I think they were trying to keep as much meat there as they could, with the larger diameter of the shotgun barrel.  The shotgun barrel shank is larger than a #1 sporter, but smaller than the #5 military.  The trigger guard on the shotgun is identical to the #1 sporter.  Note that the only difference on this model is the top receiver ring round and not stepped, and the larger barrel tenon.  The shotguns are always 20 gage.  Often sold as "16 gage brass, 20 gage paper".  This is an ignorant statement perpetuated from an older book.  They are definitely 20 gage, and every one I owned has been the same, even when sold to me as 16.

The next mode that is confusing is the Military "cook shotgun".  The story of this is that the cooks were issued these for harvesting camp meat.  These shotguns are very close to the same as the sporting shotgun.  The differences I have seen in them is the stock, breech block, and trigger guard.  The breech block is always a military one.  The hammer is sporting, with a cut off nose to clear the shell.  The stock lacks the round boss's where it meets the frame.   

Continued in next post.....   

  
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Re: Rem Rolling Block Rifles
Reply #7 - Dec 17th, 2011 at 6:27pm
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Continuation of my last post.

The military shotgun has a shorter, wider lower tang.  The barrel thread diameter on this is the same as the sporter shotgun, I believe, about halfway between a #1 sporter and a #5 military.  The military shotgun has the patent info stamped on the tang similar to the military.

Where I see some of the confusion coming from is parts swapping between the models.  The shotgun stock can be switched to the #1 military.  I think some #1's have had lower tangs and stocks switched from shotguns, to allow the sporter tang to be used on a more valuable large bore rifle being made from a military frame.  I also think a lot of the #1 shotguns have had their parts switched into military receivers that were recontoured to look like sporters.  The military parts were then switched onto the shotguns.  The result is two mixed parentage rifles to muddy the collectors knowledge.

Remington also may have mixed parts at the factory to meet orders.  I know Grant shows examples of sporter/military engraved rifles that he swears are factory.  That is, military frames, sporter hammer/block, and factory engraving.  Some of the lower utility grade guns may have had military parts installed into them to make orders at a low price with parts on hand.  This may explain some of the military lower tangs on shotguns and #1 1/2's, in addition to users switching parts.

Throughout all of this, the one thing that is nearly constant is breechblock/hammer width and size.  Most will interchange, regardless of model.  I find a few early sporters that the breechblock is different, and will not headspace.  

Hope I haven't muddled this up too much more.  Remember, this is all my opinion, based on the ones I have seen and worked on.  That is a small sample of the millions of rolling blocks that were made.  I certainly see new things all the time that I haven't seen before.  

dave
« Last Edit: Jun 20th, 2017 at 11:11am by ssdave »  
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Re: Rem Rolling Block Rifles
Reply #8 - Dec 17th, 2011 at 6:45pm
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Dave I once owned a 16ga. that was actually a 16ga. and passed it onto a friend so I don't have a way to compare the receiver with others but thought it worth mentioning.

Looking back I somewhat regret giving it away now that I have the ability to do barrel work and other misc. repairs. The barrel was extremely loose, the forearm was pretty much toast, the receiver was in remarkably good condition and the butt stock was not all that bad. I actually took it out on a couple of pheasant hunts and shot it quite a bit back in the 60's. Looking back I very was lucky it did not turn into a real bad accident but being young and dumb it never crossed my mind.

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Re: Rem Rolling Block Rifles
Reply #9 - Dec 17th, 2011 at 7:28pm
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Regarding threads on RB's. I only know of three threads that were used (not including the 4's) and were all square threads.

1.055 X 12, Smokeless military and sporters

.975 x 12, square, BP military, sporters and Hepburns

.850 x 12, #1 1/2 and #2

My 1897 is 1.055, my Shot gun is .975, my #1 1/2 is .850

The DeHaas book shows a shot gun with even tangs. Mine apprears to be original with remants of CC on both frame and tang. The tang on mine has a stamp "BK" any ideals as that that means?

Frank
« Last Edit: Dec 17th, 2011 at 8:30pm by frnkeore »  

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Re: Rem Rolling Block Rifles
Reply #10 - Dec 17th, 2011 at 8:24pm
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A bit more info. 
All #1 1/2's are octagon top that I have seen. I have also seen a #1 1/2 in .38-40, and another in .44-40, and from what I have seen in old advertising, the .44-40 was the largest caliber offered in the 1 1/2 frame. It also seems from the old ads that the #1 1/2 and #2 were both offered in identical pistol calibers, and small rifle calibers that were pistol/rifle calibers.
I would guess that as Remington got short on funds just before their bankruptcy in the late 1880's they might have assembled some odd combinations, so no way to ay anything is gospel for sure. 
As rare as a #1 Sporter is, the #1 1/2 seems to be even rarer. 

On a side note, a local shop got a Remington Sporter shotgun in a year or so ago and I examined it closely because I was very interested in purchasing it. It was the most unusual Rem. shotgun  I had ever seen because of the wood mainly. It was a #1 round top, with some very nice case color left, but the wood was done in typical #1 Sporter fashion with the scallops on the wrist and forearm where the wood meets the receiver, plus a pewter forend cap. Additionally it had a 30" barrel, which looked great proportionally!
Unfortunately the owner didn't want to sell it right away, and more unfortunately when he decided to sell a friend of mine happened to be in the store looking at it and he was the lucky guy to get it! We both had tried numerous times to talk him into selling, and not sure why he suddenly gave in to my friend.
  

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Re: Rem Rolling Block Rifles
Reply #11 - Dec 17th, 2011 at 11:56pm
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J. Louis,  Was the shotgun a sporter, or a military?  I seem to remember having a military that I thought was a 16 gage some time ago.  I shot some low base 16 through it, also, and am glad I lived through it.  I might be confusing it with a H&A medium frame, though,  I shot one or the other, and thought better of it later.  I have built rifles on several of the sporter shotgun actions, and/or salvaged the lower tang and breechblock and hammer to make sporters.  Every one I have owned has been 20 ga.  Not that I have had an extensive sample to go from!  With a minor diameter of .940, the barrel would be getting kind of thin for a 16 ga at .740.  But, Husqvarna made numerous 16 ga shotguns, and I measured them and they're 1.050 like a #5, so only about .040 bigger than the remington shotguns. 

I measured the minor diameter of a shotgun action (too lazy to pull the barrel to measure the major dia) and it is .040" larger than the #1 action.  I measured several #1 and #5 actions and barrels to check them.

Given that, I would agree with the numbers that Frnkeore gives, at .970 and 1.050 for the #1 and #5, and 1.010 is what I calculate for the shotgun action.  Mine has the long, thin sporter bottom tang, as well as the narrow top tang.  But, has the patent markings on the top tang, undisturbed, so it was not thinned from a military.

dave
  
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Re: Rem Rolling Block Rifles
Reply #12 - Dec 18th, 2011 at 12:21am
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Just found in my emails a conversation I had with someone just after I checked one of the early #1 that I talked about before in .22 rimfire.  My email said that the barrel is just slightly smaller, it will screw into a #1, but is a tiny bit loose.  Interesting thing was that the barrel tenon is longer by .180" than the standard #1 sporter or blackpowder.  However, I know that the breech block is the same.  I have two of these actions, one made into a .45-90/.22 rf  and one sitting in my parts cabinet.  I used sporter shotgun breechblocks for both to allow conversion to centerfire.  I use the .45-90 with my homemade liner and the rimfire breechblock for practice.

I checked the action in the cabinet, a #1 barrel will start to screw into it and then becomes too tight.  Not a huge difference, but probably .005" or .010".

dave
  
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Re: Rem Rolling Block Rifles
Reply #13 - Dec 18th, 2011 at 12:37am
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Dave I don't know if it was a sporter or a military action, I don't have any knowledge at all when it comes to the Rolling Blocks.

J.Louis
  

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Re: Rem Rolling Block Rifles
Reply #14 - Jan 2nd, 2012 at 4:26pm
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A few simple keys to differentiating the original #1 sporting rifle from the #1 1/2 sporting rifle (does not apply to shotguns).
#1 sporting rifle will always have the straight bar extractor. There are two short rear guard screws (one from each side) instead of a single screw to allow space for the set trigger option. The trigger guard tang is longer than the receiver tang and has an extra screw behind the tang screw tip.
The #1 1/2 always uses a rotary extractor. There is a single rear guard screw that goes all the way across the frame. The tangs are of equal length. 
As Dave mentioned, it is best to keep in mind many rifles have undergone parts repair, modifications, and gunsmithing over the years so it is not unusual to find rifles that have parts or features that Remington did not place there during the initial manufacture of the sporting rifles.

There are a lot of features that help differentiate military vs civilian parts, action, and rifles but that would take far more space than this forum allows. Kenn
  
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