I`m starting this thread for the posting of "Lube Formula`s"
I`m going to nail it to the top and everyone just post there "FAVORITE"
COME ON GUYS IF U KNOW THE FORMULA PUT IT DOWN!
Beewax 4oz
castor 4oz
lanolin 4oz
synthetic spermaceti 4oz
lead stearate 1oz
soap powder 1oz (ivory flakes)

My latest I call Red Bear

1 lb beeswax
1/2 lb lanolin
1/2 lb Bear Fat
8 oz Lube Gard

I use Charlie Dell's 36MA:

Beeswax
Synthetic spermaceti
600w worm gear oil
Lithium stearate
Anhydrous lanolin

Equal parts by weight, except 1/2 part lanolin

HI
1lb. beewax
1/2 lb crisco
1/2 cup or thereabouts of Marvel Mystery Oil
RWJshooter

My favorite lube for black powder is bee's wax and white lithum grease. You heat the lithum and then add the bee's wax until you reach the consistancy you want. It has a very high melting point,  unfortunatly you can't pan lube with it, you have to use it in a pump. I got this formula from Ray Day and Kenny Fox many years ago.

Bob

Emmerts and Darr back east. Had leading problems with one rifle in the 100 degree dry heat of the southwest. Am using Javalina Schuetzen and it cured the problem. SPG for black.

Dick

While this lube is very simple and easy to mix it has worked well for me for over 35 years of shooting cast bullets with smokeless powder. Bullets lubed and stored for over twenty years were the same as the day they were lubed and when shot performed the same as freshly lubed bullets. This is the orginal "Darr #2 Lube Formula". I used this lube at velocities to 2000fs for gas check bullets when shooting handgun sillywets, having shot many 40's in unlimited class. No leading was observed when shooting plain base bullets up to 1650fs.

Equal parts by melted volume of paraffin wax (canning wax) and Vaseline petroleum jelly, add 1 tablespoon STP per each pound of mix. This is a good lube for both pan lubing and for use in lube pumps.

Schuetzendave, I don't know about others, but I started using anhydrous lanolin instead of petroleum jelly (Vaseline) at Charlie Dell's suggestion.  It is an animal product and soft so it serves the function of softening while being compatible with the beeswax I use.  I addition, it is about as sticky as anything I have found, so I think it binds the lube to the bullet well.

Now my question, what about Carnauba Wax?  I know why I am using it, but how about some of the rest of you?  Why do you use it and in what proportions??

Froggie

The accuracy of my bullets would deline severly as the lube dried out and hardened over time. The addition of lanolin slowed the process , however it did not stop it.

I am too busy in the summer to cast and lube bullets so I need to build up my stocks in the winter.

So I starting storing my lubed bullets in the freezer.
When I use freshly lubed or frozen bullets with the Alberta Schuetzen lube they perform great without leading from -40 to 110 F without any need to change the formula.

I’m not sure a lot of folks use it much anymore but I mixed my first batch of Alox and beeswax  (50-50)  up in the 1970’s and have been adding to it ever since.  I have about three lubes that I try on any new bullet, some bullets don’t like it but the vast majority do.   
I bought my Alox back then so I have no idea if the new stuff is the same or not. 

I've tried a number of different lubes over many years.  I believe the first lube I used in cast bullet rifles & pistols was made either by Ideal or Lyman.  As a matter of fact, I still have some Ideal molds that I use.

Anyway, I tried the least expensive to the most expensive and finally came up with my own home brew that seems to work whether I'm shooting straight black or duplex.

50% pure beeswax
50% peanut oil off the supermarket shelf

Now the hard part since we're speaking of different melting temperatures here.  I melt and add 2 oz. of Kirk's Original Castille soap which is made with pure cocoanut oil.

The lube seems to last forever and holds together on the hottest days.  I guess a fella just has to try it out and see if the accuracy holds up in his firearm.

If you make it up without the soap... it even tastes good.

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2 oz. of the melted Castille soap to the can of 16 oz. of melted beeswax and 16 oz. of peanut oil.   

You must have the beeswax/peanut oil as hot as you can without burning it since the Castille soap melts at a higher temperature.

Schutzenbob......You said that you got a lube formula from Kenny Fox, did you ever try his ZORRO lube? I still have several pounds of it that I bought from him at the WEST END G. C. in the early 90`s.  8)

Don H,
Thanks for the kind words...but let me correct a commonly head belief. SPG works equally well for smokeless or black...I developed it as an "all-purpose" cast bullet lube. We, in fact, sell it to all shooters of cast bullets...pistol, high velocity, CBA'ers, muzzle loaders, ect.

One of the requirements I put on it was that it needed to work in all weather for all my various cast bullet firearms as I was tired of switching from one lube to another in hot or cold temperatures. I worked on this the better part of three years and in the process learned quite a bit about bullet lube.

I'm not saying that SPG will work better than a particular lube in a particular barrel...but it has shown to work in 99% of barrels in 99% of temperatures and I think that is it's real advantage. I've used it exclusively since I developed it in "81-"83 and it has worked well for me. I got Chuck Blender to try it a few years ago and it cured a barrel that he was having trouble with (leading) at Raton, New Mexico.

The true test of any bullet lube is in a cold (less than 30 degrees) temperature with low humidity. Almost any wax or grease will work when humidity is above 50% and temperatures don't exceed about 80 degrees. Cold, dry weather is what will test a lube...as well as black powder fouling.

For those who like to experiment with different ingredients I will offer some cautions that I explored when developing SPG. Using tallow or other animal fats that haven't been purged of salt can be bad medicine for barrels...especially old , pitted barrels. Likewise with beeswax that has not been purged of honey and sugars. Also...the Vaseline that one buys today as well as Crisco is not what it was even just 20 years ago. Oils and fats that are used in food preparation generally have not been purged of salt.

Another answer to a question that I have been asked frequently...yes, I have been using SPG on my rimfire ammo, especially my old Federal stuff. Their rosin-based lube seems to have dried out and here in Wyoming with the low humidity I have noticed much less leading when I use a film of SPG on the bullets.

Another tip...I don't recommned using a micro-wave to melt lube. Use only a double-boiler and if by some chance you have applied direct heat to a lube or scorch it...throw it out. I can guarantee it will not work after over-heating.

I have one funny Charlie Dell story concerning lubes. Years ago Charlie called me up (before we had ever met) and said that he was putting together an archive of bullet lube formulas. He politely requested the formula for SPG and I responded with "Charlie...I'd be glad to tell you what is in it...but then I'd just have to kill you." Charlie got a big kick out of that and we were friends from that point on. I considered Charlie to be a real authority on bullet lubes and everything else "single shot"...and I really miss his good conversation.

Gut Ziel,

Steve

JimB suggested I post this here from the other thread

"I talked to a couple of guys at EG about lubes.  I told them I'd post the info on a lube base that I found at our local farm store in the animal husbandry supply section while searching for a cheap local source of lanolin.

It is Corona "lanolin-rich antiseptic ointment for horses, cattle, small animals, and pets".   it is over 50% purel lanolin and most of the rest is emulsified beeswax with assorted fragrances and a small amount of anteseptics and medications.    I checked it out a few years back when the old "shootersTalk" web site was running.  One of the lube gurus on the cast bullet forum was a PhD in soap chemistry for one of the big mfgs.  He checked out the product and its ingredients and said it was an almost perfect BP bullet lube.  I have been using it for a couple of years with added beeswax melted into it.  by itself it has a vasaline type consistancy and I wanted it a bit stiffer." 

as an added comment  I ouwld note that I was told that the Non-lanolin, non-beeswax ingredients would not have any negative effect and that some might actually help.  It has worked for me----but I have not won any matches either.
Wayne Stiles

slik.  I'm pretty unscientific.  I added enough until it looked right (?) I also dropped in some of the red sealing wax from the top of a well-known bourbon bottle thoug it took a long time for the red wax to completely melt into the mix.  On my 45-70 bullets (457676 lyman Matthews tapered bullet) I have just panlubed.  I have a B&D bullet they made for me that is the same bullet but scaled down for my 38-55.  I pan lube for it.
I also have a different batch of the same lube that has has had a small amount of moly grease(sacrelidge I know--but sacred cows make the best burger) added that I have used on the 38-55 bullet in both pan-lubing and in a pope/dell/simmons lube pump.  The lube pump has a bushing cut especially for the specific bullet. It is still a little stiff for use in the lube pump a and before the next EG match I'll probably add some more Corona to it to soften it up a bit.

I have used it with both, but mostly I shoot smokeless in schuetzen now.  I used it some with BP a couple of years ago  when I was first getting re-started in singleshot.  I'll probably do it again latet this summer of the BP leg of the All-American match
Made it up with the Corona and less beeswax than Im using now so it was softer and a bit stickier.  It gave me a good lube star on the muzzle and a decent bore I was using a blow tube but here on the downwind side of Lake Michigan humidities tend to run high

I have tried various versions of many of the above mentioned formulas. Nothing like that shaved soap foaming as you try to melt it! It's got to be REAL dry. Some one mentioned concentrated liquid, I might try it.
One thing I have tried and seemed to work well in the Emmerts type lube is virgin olive oil instead of canola. It seems to be e little "thinner" but gave the finish product a little more slippery feel. I shot some of my best groups with it. 
I really prefer just to buy SPG, it has not failed me. But as much muzzle stuffing and smith carbine shooting as I do at the N-SSA it gets expensive. ( No Offensive Steve! )Those .58's hold a lot of lube and lube is super imortant when you are not wiping for 20 or 30 shots. We shoot against the clock, and the clock is part of the score.
The emmerts is nice because you adjust beeswax content for time of year. The Feb. formula is a real mess in August and the August formula is too hard in Feb.
Anyway, The beeswax, crisco, and olive oil has worked in my BP cartridge guns. I did mixed one with a little lanolin on top and seemed ok but never really kept track of it, just used it for plinking. Jon

After Charlie Dell built my 32-357 about 10 years ago (i'm from Oz) he sent me some samples of his lube, after using up the 36M and 59C, i experimented with a variation of 59C as I could not obtain stearate in small quantities in Australia. I use the lube for black powder and smokeless with good results.
30% Beeswax 20% Spermacetti wax 30% lanalon and 20% castor oil (by weight)

I will be doing some pan lubing for the first time in about 25 years. What I used back then was the parafin, vaseline and RCBS case lube. It worked OK except it tended to fall off the bullets if you werent real careful, I never did use it very much so I cannot really recommend or condemn it.  At any rate, I will be starting to shoot a tapered bullet so I guess I am going to have to go back to pan lubing.  I have had good luck with Alox in all my cast bullets, Schuetzen and gascheck, and was thinking about the Alox beeswax formula. The Dell book states it might not work well after being melted, I noticed some people in this thread mentioned the alox pan lube, has anyone had any problems with it in smokeless loads? Thanks! Joe S

waterman
You might try these guys, they sell two different grades of Jojoba oil.
(You need to Login or Register to view media files and links)

well it is winter GREEN....
oil of wintergreen is a preservative, and helps keep the crissco from souring, and like you said it smells good so one will not have a mad wife around when in the kitchen lubing. 
and that is a little important
Its also one of those things that some one who had been doing this a lot longer than i have told me do it this way and it works so thats what i do.
happy new year
irish

Been using the 50/50 bees wax & olive oil lube for a year now with much success. Pan lube works out great. Keeps the fouling down.

Quote:

Where else but (You need to Login or Register to view media files and links) .  I kid you not.
Quote:

Sheep farmers aren't too hard to find.  Finding one even in suburbanized Connecticut wasn't hard.  For a few dollars I got a lifetime supply.  Go around Easter when they are, ah, "processing" lots of lambs.  Ask for fat from around the kidneys, which is supposed to be best.  I ran mine through a meat grinder and then simmered the result in water to extract the tallowy goodness.
Quote:

Powdered graphite is easy to find, but it's usually of indifferent quality.  I believe that Pope's recipe called for "finest" grade Acheson graphite, what would today probably be called colloidal graphite.  The finest grade powdered graphite I can find is here (You need to Login or Register to view media files and links) , but you better be sitting down before you read further...Okay, I warned you... it's $450 for a pound;  smaller amounts are much more per lb.  Acheson makes a product called Oildag, an oil mixed with colloidal graphite, which I believe Pope approved as a substitute.  But if you use Oildag, I would think that it might be best to skip the steam cylinder oil, or the lube might be too soft.
Doug

What I have been using for the past several years, in all kinds of weather, and has proven to have excellent shelf life is as follows:

8 oz. Beeswax, 1/3 cup Crisco (original solid ), and 1 cake of Neutrogena Original Formula soap. 

Melt the beeswax and then stir in Crisco.  Shave soap into mix and stir to dissolve any lumps.  Decant into glass containers (pint canning jars) and allow to harden.  Easy to remelt in microwave and good for pan lubing, or pour into lube sizer or lube pump.

The Crisco can be adjusted to meet specific needs.  Can be remelted indefinitely.   

Just my .02 centavos

Iwas reading in the pages before of why use lanolin?I've used for sizing brass,very lightly or you will krinkle.I would try it on lead and experiment till  I see results.I read that petroleum products are used.If there working use them.I've got access to both pure mink oil.Emu extract,Pure lanolin,rendered bear lard.I am bound to stumble on something.What ever works. Iwill share my ideas.They all make good water repellancy on metal,leather,wood polish.Cant beat nature.I can direct you to the suppliers.You dont want nothing with acid or salt in it.Email me if you want.  fwierus@excel.net    Frank

One of the advantages of using lanolin is that your lube will not dry out. Many lubes will dry out and crack, but adding just a tablespoon or two per pound will keep the lube supple for well over a year. 
  Has anyone tried just dumping a bottle of mould prep in the mix in stead of the hard to find colloidal graphite? All mould prep is is graphite suspended in a thinner. I would think that just dumping it in the mix and boiling off the thinner would work.

40 Rod

This is getting interesting.The MinkOil co added lanolin to there product,and other natural additives.I sized my 45-100 brass and it is slick.Now if that works between brass and tool steel,it should work between lead and the bore.One thing,the bear lard works on skin allergies such as exema and machine coolant redness.Ive done this just to see what was done in the old days shooting muzzloaders.I've got 24lbs of that bears lard in the refridge.Good for cooking and baking.I'm sticking with SPG,for now.Need some lard let me know.This is the best topic.   Frank  

I got a weird one for you.  1 part beeswax, 1 part alox, and 1 part Corona horse ointment.  Hasn"t failed me yet in any condition.

Hello, Years ago, I used to purchase Synthetic Spermaceti wax from Charlie Dell,  Is this stuff still available?  The last time I checked, had to buy 50# drum.
   Over the holiday, I was experimenting mixing various lubes..wanted to find one without the spermaceti..in case I couldn't find more.
  Came up with a nice soft-smooth textured lube..probably good for B.P., grease cookie...or anti skin-cracking cream!
200 pts. pure beeswax
100 pts. castor oil
50 pts. anhydrous lanolin
    Haven't tried it yet.

I think that the big deal with the steam cylinder oil is it's durability rating under high pressure. This may sound strange, but here goes. From an engineering standpoint on oils, oils are flammable and do burn, some can explode given the right conditions. Steam cylinder oil is like rock drill oil, a rock drill is fed oil to lubricate the percussion drill steel to keep it from galling and ruining the drill. This oil has to have a very high detonation level or it will detonate with severe consequences, I know been there done that. We ran out of rock drill oil over seas and my boss said hell try any oil we can't stop working. We ruined 5 drills before he gave up and got us an emergency shipment in. A rock drill running at night with the bad oil is easy to spot as it sounds like a single cylinder engine on steroids and shoots flames out the exhaust port. If you use an oil like steam cylinder oil or rock drill oil it is rated at a very high detonation/pressure level before it goes bang on you. Some of the problems that we encounter with fouling I think is caused by using lube formulas that do not use a high detonation oil as a base ingredient. I may be wrong here but I think not. A large amount of the old formulas used the steam oil for that very reason. A lot of the old timers never cleaned there rifle until they got home after shooting all day, they did not need to as they were using a superior oil/lube mixture.
Mike

There is a little more to lube than just to keep a bullet from leading and powder fouling isn't much of (if any) factor with smokeless but, a big factor in BP.

Lubes shouldn't be as slippery as possible (these are my own opinions) but, should exert some resistance to dampen pressure variations in the bullet travel down the barrel.

When I've tested lubes (and I did a lot of it years ago) I used Darr lube as my standard to measure others against (ok but, not the best with BP). Darr lube is one of the ALL time best lubes for plain base, BSed bullets. It's only limiting factor is temperature. Somewhere above 80/85 degrees it will lead! In those conditions, I kept my bullets in a small ice chest until ready to shoot and that worked ok. After starting back shooting, I've switched to Smilley lube for a all around lube.

My point here is, test your lubes against Darr Lube and if it's as good or better accuracy wise, it's good to go.

The formula for Darr is simple and cheap....... 50/50 Paraffin and Vaseline with 1 - 2 table spoons of STP or a tube of the old RCBS case lube (what I've always used). I've had guys tell me that they don't use the STP or case lube and it does just fine. Darr lube will shoot 248's and 5 shot groups of 7/8" at 200 and it's cheap!

I'm not advocating Darr as the best possible lube but, it is a lube that you have to exceed the accuracy of to KNOW that you have a excellent lube.

Frank

The Javelina 75% Alox and 25% Bee's Wax is one that deserves a try, it Smiley's old formula and the business has just been purchased by a close friend and competitor. If you have an interest in purchasing some let me know and I will pass it onto him. Once he gets his business license and other related items in order he will be advertising his products as well as his contact information. Until then I don't mind helping him out and actually I enjoy doing so. 

J.Louis

Hi Frank, Thanks for the reply, and again for the advice. I do understand your point about trying and making a comparison. However I'm so new to the game I have really only my first batch of lube to use as a bench mark. It seems to work well. I don't get any lead in the barrel and the bore cleans up rather quickly. You have pointed out that some lubes will prove to help the rifle shoot more accurate. That got me to thinking about my experience shooting rim-fire bench-rest. I have seen how lube plays a role with accuracy in that game. Starting with a clean barrel in my rim-fire bench-rest rifle I have to shoot several rounds before the rifle settles down and starts to perform. The barrel is a fine Krieger and I'm shooting Eley ammo. So it's not some old worn and pitted bore that had to get a bunch of fouling before it starts to look like it may shoot accurately. Here is what I believe is happening in the bore. Even with a bore that has been cleaned and dry patched out there is a residual amount of oil or bore cleaner left, and the absents of powder/primer and lube fouling. Once that first shot goes down the bore the fouling starts to be distributed the length of the bore. It may take several shots to bring the fouling full length of the bore for a consistent surface resistance for a bullet to run on. Once that has been achieved the rifle will shoot more consistent. In this mix of bore fouling there is a residual amount of bullet lube that is mixed in the primer/powder fouling. The viscosity of the fouling is established by the lube and the temperature it is held at while shooting. Let the rifle set for a short while in cool weather and return to shooting with the barrel previously fouled and shooting accurately and I find that the first few shot are not where they should be. 
   I would tend to believe that the same would hold true for shooting smokeless and cast lubed bullets in center fire rifles. Would like to hear your thoughts on this.
   Thanks, Sendaro

Sometimes we just don't know when an opportunity was knocking. One of the last of the old Schuetzen rifle men was A fairly well known chap by the name of Harvey Donaldson. He was well on in years when I was introduced to him at the Pine Tree Rifle Club of Johnstown New York. At that time Harvey was playing with some cartridges that Remington had legitimized (22-250 and the 25-06). Being an wood chuck hunter I was interested in fast flat shooting modern cartridges and the talks I had with Harvey were around those matters and not the fine points of his by gone days shooting cast bullets in single shot rifles. I wish that he was alive today to share his knowledge. About that same time I was working part time in a sporting goods store in Johnstown. Some items came into the shop that were from a close friend of Harvey's. Mixed into the box of odds and ends was a small booklet about 4"X4". It had sheets of tissue paper separating sheets of a substance that looked like wax,grease, and graphite. A customer in the store was also looking through the box with me and told me that Harvey advocated the use of grease and graphite wads in all his cartridges. I'd be willing to bet that this practice was something that Harvey carried over with him from his earlier days with cast bullets. 
   Anyone adding a little of graphite to the lube?

Several years ago I came across a photo that I found very interesting. One of the men in that photo is E. O. Leopold from the great State of PA. As I understand it E. O. Leopold made and sold a bullet lube that was very popular back in the 1890s through the early 1900s. Anyone know anything about this? I just love the photo. It was taken in May of 1911 at Shushan NY when four of the most noted riflemen of the time were out on a woodchuck hunt. How times have changed! Sendaro

"Once that has been achieved the rifle will shoot more consistent. In this mix of bore fouling there is a residual amount of bullet lube that is mixed in the primer/powder fouling. The viscosity of the fouling is established by the lube and the temperature it is held at while shooting. Let the rifle set for a short while in cool weather and return to shooting with the barrel previously fouled and shooting accurately and I find that the first few shot are not where they should be. 
   I would tend to believe that the same would hold true for shooting smokeless and cast lubed bullets in center fire rifles. Would like to hear your thoughts on this."

Yes, I believe this is true but, with center fire there is more heat and it comes back quicker. I've found that just two shots will usually bring it back to the prior condition. But, these things can do unexpected things, too 

BTW, great photo

Frank

Hey guys, is there a substitute for Lead Stearate, hoping to making some 59C lube.
another question, would Ivory snow dishsoap work?
thanks

John and all
When I was making Charlies Dell's lube I got some materials from him to make the formula. He gave me a couple of pounds of the soap he was using. He told me that Ivory had changed the formula and added something, I think it was to make it smell better. Any way Charlie stopped using Ivory and looked around he finally found a commercial product that was just soap. The downside was he had to buy it by the barrel. 
Ivory beads may still work but one of Charlie's things was to as much as possible use only basic ingredients.
40 Rod

Lead Stearate Pb(C17H35COO)2 and Dibasic Lead Stearate, 2PbO, Pb(C17H35COO)2 are basic lead soap of commercial stearic acid....
so does that mean steartic acid is a substitute?

I searched quite a while to make my own list, but it does no good if only I look at it.  Here is a list of black powder lubes for those of us who like to experiment

US Army 1855 - 1 part beeswax, 3 parts tallow

US Army 1861 - 8 parts beeswax, 1 part tallow

US Army 1873 - 8 parts bayberry wax, 1 part graphite

US Army 1880 - Japan wax

Sharps Rifle Co. 1878 - 1 part beeswax, 2 parts sperm oil.

Maynard Rifle  1890 - 1 part beeswax, 3 parts tallow

Marlin Firearms Co. 1891 - 1 part beeswax, 4 parts tallow

S&W 1891 -  tallow

H.M. Pope 1900 - 3 parts mutton tallow, 2 parts bay wax, 1 part beeswax, 1 part steam cylinder oil, .2 of 1 part Acheson graphite. (The bay wax can be omitted)

(5) parts Bee's Wax
(4) parts Lard/Crisco
(1) part Canola/Olive oil


Buck Emmert's Lube Formula (for black powder)
1750 grains Beeswax 
1368 grains Crisco Shortening (White) 
328 grains Crisco or Wesson Vegetable Oil 

1 pound Bees Wax
1 pound Citronella Candle
2 Tablespoons shortening

50% beeswax, 
40% white Crisco 
10% canola cooking oil.
6 cups unmelted soy wax. 
½ cup Jojoba oil. 
½ cup mutton tallow, or you can use beef tallow 
1/3 cup unsalted lard. 
1/3 cup liquid Bayberry wax. 
You can thicken this out by adding soy or using less to thin it or add more lard to make it softer.  If it gets too hot add Palm Vegetable wax or use block Bayberry wax instead of liquid Bayberry wax. 
Palm wax melts at about 160* 

50% beeswax,
40% Crisco, 
5% Canola Oil,
5% Lanolin

6 oz of beef tallow
4 oz bayberry wax
2 oz beeswax
2 oz synthetic sperm oil
1 heaping teaspoon of Moly

6 oz of beeswax
3 oz of bayberry wax
6 oz of bacon grease
1 tablespoon of Dawn soap
2 tablespoon of neatsfoot oil

40% beeswax
30% conola oil
30% lanolin

70% Soywax
20% Avocado oil
10% lanolin

One part clean beeswax
Three parts deer tallow
One canola oil
Powdered graphite 

Modern Sharps Formula
1 part Beeswax
1 part Jojoba oil

1 pound beeswax
1 pound white Crisco
1 pound Mutton Tallow
5 oz. Bag

Well...I use a product called "Junior Lube". It's made by an old Louisiana redneck named Junior Doughty. Do a search for him and/or his lube and you can find out what it's made of. I am fairly new to BPCR and newer to reloading. So I am likely only APPROXIMATELY correct when it comes to my powder measuring, bullet casting, brass reforming etc etc. But I use his lube and I get very acceptable groups at 50 yds, have not shot at 100 yds but plan to do so this week yet. He has a great write-up at his website about his NEF 45-70 handi-rifle which is what I shoot also, maybe that's why I like his recipe(?) 

Yes, I do.

As it is with all things there are pros, and cons, and I'll bet Alox is not exempt from the rule. Would like to hear what they are about the use of Alox. I just started using it and so far I like it.

                                       Sendaro

Hi John, 

A few weeks back I bought a one pound stick of alox from Paul Shuttleworth. I gave it a try and liked the results. Even while pan lubing it worked better than what I was using before. The bullets pushed out of the lube cake easy and there was no excess of lube on the bullet to be wiped off. The bullets lube with the alox seemed to even breech seat with less effort. These are my first observation and I do not proclaim them to be conclusive, however I like what I have experinced with it so far.

Would you recommend that I add bees wax to the alox I have? If so, why? 

Weather here is still around zero in the AM, and there is still much snow and ice. It's comfortable in our shooting house, but a real trip to post target on snow shoes! 

                                     Sendaro


                                 

Sendaro,

PM sent.

Jerry_H

I thought that I read on the CPA web site that Paul makes his own lube using 1/3 Alox, 1/3 Gulf wax, and 1/3 Vaseline. 

RB

Schuetzendave wrote on Nov 28^th, 2005 at 12:52pm:

Joe, 

Where did you find that stick?  Is it Alox or something equally smelly?

Dave

Randy it was used as a lube for the rail car bearing boxes. Sold as surplus and bought by Neco and has since been long gone other than by chance.

JLouis

From the Lyman 47th Reloading Handbook, Third Printing: April 1994, page 109:

" Lyman Ideal bullet lubricant is a blend of sheep tallow, beeswax and lampblack. "

Beeswax, mink oil and a bit of Murphy's oil soap.

Dusty,

I found a lube made by Pedersoli called "Lubriblack" that's available from Gun City in New Zealand. I couldn't find it anywhere in the U.S. Maybe someone knows where to find it here.

Thanks, Rats

This may be a silly question for you experienced shooters, but are the amounts in the formulas by weight or volume? I'm not sure if it makes a difference if the ingredients are all about the same weight per volume. I'm new to the bpcr game and would rather be safe than sorry. Thanks for the info, this is a great website!