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Where else but (You need to Login or Register to view media files and links) .  I kid you not.
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Sheep farmers aren't too hard to find.  Finding one even in suburbanized Connecticut wasn't hard.  For a few dollars I got a lifetime supply.  Go around Easter when they are, ah, "processing" lots of lambs.  Ask for fat from around the kidneys, which is supposed to be best.  I ran mine through a meat grinder and then simmered the result in water to extract the tallowy goodness.
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Powdered graphite is easy to find, but it's usually of indifferent quality.  I believe that Pope's recipe called for "finest" grade Acheson graphite, what would today probably be called colloidal graphite.  The finest grade powdered graphite I can find is here (You need to Login or Register to view media files and links) , but you better be sitting down before you read further...Okay, I warned you... it's $450 for a pound;  smaller amounts are much more per lb.  Acheson makes a product called Oildag, an oil mixed with colloidal graphite, which I believe Pope approved as a substitute.  But if you use Oildag, I would think that it might be best to skip the steam cylinder oil, or the lube might be too soft.
Doug

What I have been using for the past several years, in all kinds of weather, and has proven to have excellent shelf life is as follows:

8 oz. Beeswax, 1/3 cup Crisco (original solid ), and 1 cake of Neutrogena Original Formula soap. 

Melt the beeswax and then stir in Crisco.  Shave soap into mix and stir to dissolve any lumps.  Decant into glass containers (pint canning jars) and allow to harden.  Easy to remelt in microwave and good for pan lubing, or pour into lube sizer or lube pump.

The Crisco can be adjusted to meet specific needs.  Can be remelted indefinitely.   

Just my .02 centavos

Iwas reading in the pages before of why use lanolin?I've used for sizing brass,very lightly or you will krinkle.I would try it on lead and experiment till  I see results.I read that petroleum products are used.If there working use them.I've got access to both pure mink oil.Emu extract,Pure lanolin,rendered bear lard.I am bound to stumble on something.What ever works. Iwill share my ideas.They all make good water repellancy on metal,leather,wood polish.Cant beat nature.I can direct you to the suppliers.You dont want nothing with acid or salt in it.Email me if you want.  fwierus@excel.net    Frank

One of the advantages of using lanolin is that your lube will not dry out. Many lubes will dry out and crack, but adding just a tablespoon or two per pound will keep the lube supple for well over a year. 
  Has anyone tried just dumping a bottle of mould prep in the mix in stead of the hard to find colloidal graphite? All mould prep is is graphite suspended in a thinner. I would think that just dumping it in the mix and boiling off the thinner would work.

40 Rod

This is getting interesting.The MinkOil co added lanolin to there product,and other natural additives.I sized my 45-100 brass and it is slick.Now if that works between brass and tool steel,it should work between lead and the bore.One thing,the bear lard works on skin allergies such as exema and machine coolant redness.Ive done this just to see what was done in the old days shooting muzzloaders.I've got 24lbs of that bears lard in the refridge.Good for cooking and baking.I'm sticking with SPG,for now.Need some lard let me know.This is the best topic.   Frank  

I got a weird one for you.  1 part beeswax, 1 part alox, and 1 part Corona horse ointment.  Hasn"t failed me yet in any condition.

Hello, Years ago, I used to purchase Synthetic Spermaceti wax from Charlie Dell,  Is this stuff still available?  The last time I checked, had to buy 50# drum.
   Over the holiday, I was experimenting mixing various lubes..wanted to find one without the spermaceti..in case I couldn't find more.
  Came up with a nice soft-smooth textured lube..probably good for B.P., grease cookie...or anti skin-cracking cream!
200 pts. pure beeswax
100 pts. castor oil
50 pts. anhydrous lanolin
    Haven't tried it yet.