Speed up your process by doing the visual inspection of the bullet as you drop it out of the mold.
Throw all bullets back into the pot where the base is rounded and not sharp from not properly filling out the mold.
Use a powder measure using finer ball powders (AA #9, AA 4100, H108, MP300) to drop accurate loads faster.
Use a Lyman or RCBS luber-sizer to properly size your bullet and lube it. I find this is quicker and produces a more precise bullet than pan lubing. But only use a H&I die that is the exact diameter of your bullet or .001" wider to properly shear off any cast flashings. 
Do not get a die that will shear your bullet diameter down.
Match quality bullets are considered plus or minus 1% in weight.
For years I precisely weighed my bullets for accuracy.
Then I tested the extremely poor variable weight bullet outcasts against the precisely weighed bullets.
Funny but ABSOLUTELY no difference in accuracy in the testing no matter how many times done.
Please note I have been the International Schuetzen Benchrest Champion on two occasions (using unsorted bullets) and my skills and equipment are more than acceptable to do these tests.
So the biggest WASTE of time is weight sorting your cast bullets.
However accuracy is greatly improved if you weight sort your rimfire ammunition including the best TENEX.
I use a primer pocket uniformer to properly clean my pockets before cleaning the case in a vibratory cleaner before reloading.
I anneal my cases after the first firing and then trim to precise length. I have shot cases over 100 times without needing to redo this (low velocity smokeless powder).
For smokeless powder my wad is always placed at the mouth of the case - never place a wad directly on top of smokeless powder to prevent the chance of barrel ringing.
However for black powder I use a specific black powder drop measure, then weigh each load with a trickle charger for a precise load, then use a drop tube, and use a proper compression plug on the wad to compress each load precisely.
Cases for BP need to be immediately cleaned with soapy water and cleaning out the inside necks with a brush before cleaning in a vibrator.
I find annealing cases after every 10 BP firings is adequately sufficient and not required after every firing. But I reload fired cases without full length sizing. If you FL size you will get more case working of the brass and increased hardening which may require more frequent annealing.
I retrim my BP cases at the end of each season

I also do custom loading for high pressure jacketed bullets for hunting.

I used fired cases to reload the rifle they were fired in without sizing after annealing the cases after every firing and trimming to length after every firing.
I load cases .010" off the lands for hunting or on the lands for target shooting.
I use a factory crimp to properly hold the bullet in the fired neck mouth.

I found there is a sweet spot every 0.3 grains of powder so when doing your testing you may miss the sweet point of the barrel if you do half or full grain test loads.

I use a fine RCBS 10-10 scale to weigh each stick powder load precisely to closest stick weight. I use a powder measure, trickle charger and tweezers. Time consuming but precision accuracy is demanded by some.

Animals shot at over 400 yards with my custom ammo.

Note: Paul is President of the Alberta Wildlife Federation.

I also custom  built Paul's .30-06 Mountain rifle. Yes it has a RKS gain twist barrel.

Kyle's Ram was shot with a 7mm Magnum.

I cast 100 bullets and pan lube and bagged in little over hour.Then size later.I keep in small plastic zip lock bags,50 per bag from that session. Then put in cartridge box before a Match...maybe,or just use outa da bag.........