Some good news for the Pope as a shooter.  The stock of my second new rifle is a good enough fit on the Pope to allow me toes how it shoots.  I will be shooting the DST 22 at a match tomorrow and will pull the stock and install it on the Pope for a range session.

Jack

Rather than go into a lengthy dissertation on how to repair this I'll try to keep it to a few basic points. First off Acraglass and other epoxy products become inert upon curing which doesn't allow them to expand or contract while the surrounding wood does. Over time this creates a noticeable ridgeline and edge separation which puts you back to square one. The best filler that I have used is fine wood flour mixed with shellac or super glue. In this case however it's a moot point because of the extensive damage. This stock will have to be cut off at the toe and a new piece of walnut grafted on. The best glue to use for this purpose is hot hide glue of the amber variety. When the mating surfaces are perfect stipple the wood with an awl to increase shear strength. Drill two pilot holes for a long #8 brass wood screw to hold the pieces together, apply the glue and tighten them up. After shaping the proper contour and sanding absolutely smooth you can start your finish work. This looks like an oil finished stock so start by applying a coat of pure linseed oil, not that sunnyside crap and let it sit for a day and do it again. Get some good quality artist's oil paints and some pure gum turpentine, not that sunnyside crap and using a #2 artist's brush  start to match the grain pattern. The colors that you will need are burnt umber, van dyke brown, yellow ocher and black. With a bit of skill you will be able to match and extend the grain pattern perfectly. Paint fine lines and dry brush the paint to pull the colors into one another and soften the edges. After a dozen tries you'll start to get it right. When done let it dry for a month or so and apply more linseed oil to add the proper luster to the surface. If the oil smears or runs the paint the paint's not dry. This technique will result in an invisible and durable repair. Trust me, this ain't my first rodeo.

830singleshot wrote on Sep 18^th, 2026 at 12:06pm:



I think you are right about Salt Cured Wood here.

It wasn't only Browning. The salt cure process has been known for a very long time and stock wood with that curse has been seen on other mfg'rs products as well. Ruger and Winchester got some as well as others..The furniture industry used the process for a long time.


As to this rifle, that rusting action, the surfaces in contact all tell of salt cured wood

That butt plate screw itself,,that REALLY screams Salt Wood.

There is a test for salt cured wood. A very weak Silver Nitrate soln at about 1 or 2%.
A couple drops onto a clean unfinished wood surface will bubble and turn purple IIRC.

Jonathan,
I will give your painting technique a try. I grafted a piece onto a forend that matches ok but I have a 1/8” seam that I can’t get to come close. 

Thanks

bpjack wrote on Sep 18^th, 2026 at 3:04pm:


Artist pigment works great and comes in a variety of colors. 

I have blood drawn every week pursuant to my chemotherapy, and one small benefit is I get to keep the elastic bands they use to clamp my arm during the search for a usable vein. 

Week one: "Hmmm, I bet I could use those bands that they throw away after one use."

Week thirty: "Whatinhell am I gonna do with this box full of big rubber bands."

Week thirty one: "Sure, I'll take that rubber band! Thanks!"

I use concrete coloring pigments for brown/red/tan dies in epoxy.  As others stated, most any artists powdered pigments will do.

You can get universal colors at the paint store. They work well with epoxy.
Get a little darker than you think you need.
Chuck