I had CPA cut 3 forends for me in the past and they did excellent work. Based on a current thread regarding stocks, that excellence may have faded. 
My dilemma-
I have a stock blank set with wonderful figure I want/need cut for a lowwall and my initial choice was CPA. 
If the wood gets carved wrong, there is no do over and it’s unique qualities are gone forever.
With others having issues with them, who is a good choice for a stockmaker?
Thanks, Richard

cellargun wrote on Aug 6^th, 2026 at 3:40pm:


CG, I just measured the Cody Ballard action I am trying to install the CPA Pope stock to. It is about an eighth of and inch bigger than most of my Ballards. 

I have used CPA stocks before with no problems. I think it's a good idea to send your action and wood to CPA, have them carve your wood and fit it to the action. Will be worth the extra cost. And if you're as lazy as I am have them install the buttplate and do the finish.

CPA has done all my Single Shot stock work with good results. They supplied the wood. I’ve stocked a few muzzle loaders not my shops usual job.

I turn a lot of bowls, have for many years some highly figured. Last winter think the count was 3 dozen plus sold in local shows or given away Figured wood can be sorted by appearance in a block but you never know for sure until you start cutting. Bowls with faults can be saved with CA glue sometimes not always. Often the bowls intended size needs to be reduced to accommodate flaws. And some buyers like mixed grain, sap and heart, solid knots, and even holes in the finished job. There’s no accounting for taste.

With gunstocks the professional shaper, using his wood, will most often correct hidden problems by starting over with a new blank . Customer supplied another matter, he was not involved in the selection or care of blanks as they dry. Doubt if many will accept responsibility for supplied wood defects. Even if he did how’s he going to solve it. Fixing with Glue not acceptable most gun stocks, replacing wood may or may not satisfy the customer. When we judge a gunmaker’s excellence best use work completely under his control.

Boats 

George always refuses to carve my wood.   

There's also a guy in north central Pennsylvania named Sean Rowland who has a pantograph, many patterns, and the skill to use them. Not to mention the keen eye and true hands to do it the old fashioned way, by hand from a blank, if that's what you prefer. I would (and have recently) have him do my stock work before I'd consider CPA ever again. 

You can view his work on his Facebook page.

I’m not sure how anyone makes a living doing stock work.  Short story: My boss at my day job saw a stock I did for a Rolling Block.  He asked if I could do one for one of his rifles.  After seeing what a fancy piece of Walnut or Maple costs, he said he would be happy with the piece of plain Walnut I have in the shop.  He asked how long it would take, and I told him 6-8 weekends.  He wanted it done faster and told me to do it during work hours (we were in the slow season and he’s the owner).  I told him it would still take 6-8 weeks since the finish requires time to cure.  Our CFO overheard him and told him he would have to pay my billable hours to the company at my consulting rate.  6-8 weekends is roughly 100 hours of work.  Not really since I don’t spend full days working in the shop, but you get the idea.  I’m not sure what a stock maker charges per hour, but my consulting rate is $200/hr (that’s what the company makes, not what I make).  That would make the stock $20,000 before materials.    Either stock makers are super fast, or only charge minimum wage for their time.

Ohh Brother.

If someone wants to take a close look at the beautiful rifle, do you make them wear a bib so they don't drool on it..

Exquisite... !

So if I might ask, what is the final coat, oil or poly..?




bobw wrote on Aug 9^th, 2026 at 1:42pm:

RJ-35-40 wrote on Aug 9^th, 2026 at 2:05pm:



100% oil finish, through the last coat.
Bob

The first Ballard stock I ever had done was from George. And when I told him what it was for he groaned and said he hated doing Ballard stocks. But he did it and they were great. Only issue I had was his stock was so closely done that I had to slightly open up the through bolt hole as one side was flush with the receiver, and nothing left to sand. I opened the hole up and shifted the stock over a bit and it was fine.
He's done others for me since, but still not crazy about them.

westerner wrote on Aug 12^th, 2026 at 12:58am:



That’s a shame!  

If I was having a Ballard pre-carved, I would ask to have the head end oversized, by as much as 1/4 inch back 4-5 inch into the stock, by the look of your fit.

I don’t understand the problem with a through bolt.  Of all the different styles of actions I have done, I find the Ballard the easiest to get a good fit to the action.  

I’m working on a High-wall now from a blank, for the first time, it is absolutely the toughest I have done.

bobw wrote on Aug 12^th, 2026 at 12:37pm:


Yup, they will bring out your real stock making talent. It's so easy to rock that stock when you're fitting it up for a mark because of the socket shape and you have to be very careful sliding it in so that it doesn't happen. Pistol grip tang even makes it worse. I've got one all fitted up now from a blank that I bought from jodo and need to finish final shaping and then start the forearm. Had other projects in the way so haven't been working on it lately. I've had Pecatonica do some stocks for me and they've done a nice job. You might look at their website as they do have some shapes for single shot guns besides muzzleloaders. 
CPA told me about 6-7 weeks ago that they're moving their wood business to a place in Ohio.

westerner wrote on Aug 12^th, 2026 at 2:25pm:



I have used both a lathe and drill press.  I don’t feel there is much difference.  I only like the lathe better because I can see both ends easier, and just stand and crank the tail stock.
Bob

Jonathan wrote on Aug 12^th, 2026 at 11:06pm:


Polyetholene?  I didn't see any reference to it here. The thread is about reputable stock carvers.

jhm wrote on Aug 13^th, 2026 at 9:29pm:


I would prefer a poorly finished stock and recoil pad than a poor fit at the head.  Of course fitting wood to frame is usually the toughest part of stocking a gun.  This is especially true for a sidelock shotgun.

I’m curious how poor the fit is on your gun.  Is it a sidelock or boxlock frame?  If very poor, the action will pound it’s way back, and if it’s a sidelock this will push the rear of the locks back and possibly crack the wood.  If you see an LC Smith with cracks behind the lock this is what is happening.  Granted you probably won’t be shooting it like they did when new, but this can still happen fairly quickly if poorly fitted.   
Of course on a rifle this could effect accuracy.
Bob

I think the fit to the receiver face is good. It is just not flush with the metal. It is proud I would say 1/16 of an inch. It is like he got in a hurry to finish it. I did not rush him. The checkering on the side panels is good they are just proud of the receiver. Thought about contacting him about it but didn't want the hassle of sending it back. The checkering would have to be recut also. It is a box lock action.


JMH

bobw wrote on Aug 15^th, 2026 at 11:50am:

Lord knows, I all but detest tape except for packages. Having said that, multiple layers of the good 3-M blue or the green Frog brand can make fitting to a finished receiver doable without harm. once you start to scuff each layer you have to be more careful. Get the last single layer roughed up then remove the wood. Any final sanding off the metal can take you flush or leave the wood .005-.010 proud like the factories did in the 1800s.

cellargun wrote on Aug 15^th, 2026 at 4:23pm:


I use the electrical tape that is more like rubber.  Red stuff in this picture.  Not the cheap plastic stuff though.  It forms easily around the odd shapes of an action.  Then I usually apply one layer of the blue tape for indicating first contact.  The blue that would be against the wood has been removed in this picture.
Bob