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Purdey
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Machining a stress relieved barrel
Jul 15th, 2026 at 10:56am
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If I purchase a Shilen stress relieved barrel and then have it machined part octagon part round will that negatively affect the stress relieving?
  
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TomKlinger
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Re: Machining a stress relieved barrel
Reply #1 - Jul 15th, 2026 at 11:29am
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Purvey,
The basic answer is No! Stress relieving makes machining easier and more accurate. 

Tom Klinger
  
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frnkeore
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Re: Machining a stress relieved barrel
Reply #2 - Jul 15th, 2026 at 11:31am
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Any time you cut metal, it will induce or relieve stress. Even if it is stress relieved.

But, the key to it on a barrel, is to do it equally. On a octagon barrel, you want to machine opposite side before doing the next flats.

It shouldn't effect accuracy, done that way. Also the cutting will induce less stress, per cut with a sharp tool so, make sure of that.
  

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TomKlinger
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Re: Machining a stress relieved barrel
Reply #3 - Jul 15th, 2026 at 5:43pm
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frnkeore,
I agree with your suggested method…..


Tom Klinger
  
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John Taylor
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Re: Machining a stress relieved barrel
Reply #4 - Jul 16th, 2026 at 7:49am
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If the stress has not been relieved the barrel will warp when you machine on it. All modern barrel makers do a stress relieve on new barrels that I know of. There was one old barrel maker in Kalispell MT. that did not stress relieve his barrels, told me he used stress relieved metal. problem is with button rifled barrels the stress is caused by the rifling.
  

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GunBum
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Re: Machining a stress relieved barrel
Reply #5 - Jul 16th, 2026 at 8:14am
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On the first few octagon barrels I’ve cut from blanks, I made a pass or two or three with the cutter then rotate 180 degrees.  Cut the same amount and rotate 90 degrees etc. and rotate 180 degrees.  After 4 sides are cut, I rotate 45 degrees and repeat the process until I have all 8 sides started.  Then start over making light passes and indexing.   

The last barrel I cut the octagon on, I hammered away and cut the 8 sides to about 80% with multiple light passes and did the last 20% by the method above.  I haven’t noticed any difference between the two methods other than a lot less indexing.
  
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bobw
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Re: Machining a stress relieved barrel
Reply #6 - Jul 16th, 2026 at 12:01pm
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GunBum wrote on Jul 16th, 2026 at 8:14am:
On the first few octagon barrels I’ve cut from blanks, I made a pass or two or three with the cutter then rotate 180 degrees.  Cut the same amount and rotate 90 degrees etc. and rotate 180 degrees.  After 4 sides are cut, I rotate 45 degrees and repeat the process until I have all 8 sides started.  Then start over making light passes and indexing.  

The last barrel I cut the octagon on, I hammered away and cut the 8 sides to about 80% with multiple light passes and did the last 20% by the method above.  I haven’t noticed any difference between the two methods other than a lot less indexing.


I generally cut an octagon barrel like your last comment.  A couple weeks ago I cut the short, 7 1/2 inch, octagon on this barrel for #4 rolling block.  On a short section like this, I cut each flat to within .020 of final size.  I start out taking deep cuts and lighten up as I get a wider flat on the first four.  I cut both ways but do take lighter cuts when climb milling and brake the mill bed.  I use a 1/2 inch 6 flute carbide end mill, side cutting.  This barrel needed, if I remember correctly, .180 off each flat, turning to the off 180 degree side for each operation.  I finish with a couple light cuts on each flat to size.  Finish isn’t as bad as it looks in the picture but I draw file them anyway so really don’t care.  This was a Green Mountain barrel.  Took a couple hours to plow off to the rough size and another hour to finish to size.

Never had a problem doing the machining like this and I don’t use coolant but do use some air to cool.
Bob
  
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frnkeore
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Re: Machining a stress relieved barrel
Reply #7 - Jul 17th, 2026 at 2:29am
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IMO, the best way to cut octagon flats, is to first turn the barrel to .020 over what the corner to corner diameter of the of the octagon that you want i.e. 1.015" diameter (+ .020) /  1.0825 = .9375 across the flats. That will give you nice sharp corners.

Next, what I do is cut the flat, in one pass. In the above example, I would make the climb cut at .0485 on the 1.035 diameter, using a 1/2" carbide end mill, with the opposite side backed up with a angle plate at 300 fpm cutting speed. 

Note the finish, when done that way.
  

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