The Stevens 44 in 32-40 and 38-55 had a different hammer that was supposed to help hold the breach closed. Every one I have seen was loose. Most of the parts in a 44 are not hardened and usually the first part to show excessive ware is the toggle link and pins. Both cartridges came out with black powder loads at about 20,000 to 30,000. The model 44 also came out in 38-40 at about 13,000 psi. I have one in 44-40 but I don't hot rod it.
With cast bullets in the 38-55 you might think about using Unique or other fast pistol powder. My old book shows a max load of 9 grains of Unique with a 269 grain cast bullet, velocity of 1080. Not a good idea of using light loads of slow burning rifle powder.
Several yeas back a 44 was sent to me for repair. It had been a 25-20 and someone re-chambered it to 25-35. It came with two broken breach blocks, one had been welded back together but it did not look like it had been used after the repair.  I lined the barrel back to 25-20 and machined a new breach block.

burntwater wrote on Jul 7^th, 2026 at 10:53am:


I have hardened these parts but still have chambered in a reasonable cartridge for the frame.  

I don’t believe the hardening is really the issue with this action, it’s more the design of how it works.  I also believe a tight breeching with the rear of the breech block tight against the frame helps, pinching the block between the barrel and frame.   But, the tipping block can never holdup as well as a true falling block like the 44 1/2.

That being said, I’m sure a hardened link, pins, lever and breech block will hold up better than non-hardened.  If for no other reason than wear, and keeping the breech block tight to the barrel and frame.
Bob

I don’t want to pretend to be an engineer or metallurgist, I’m an amateur with an opinion.   

For the above reasons, if in the following, I say something out of bounds, anyone please correct me!

That said, if you watch the 44 breech block as it closes, it rolls or tips up to the barrel, versus the 44 1/2 sliding up with full support to the rear of the breech block, and the thrust from a fired cartridge.

From a technical stand point a link and pin setup has inherent looseness, even when new.  But, if the parts are not hardened they will wear faster.  When a new action is setup, it is done with any looseness built in and adjusted for, positioning the beech block in the proper place each time it is closed.  But, as the pins and parts wear, a breech block will set lower when closed, even with a spring holding the lever closed.  This may be a very small amount but enough to open up the head space on a tipping block action.  The more wear, the more dangerous the rifle could become, especially with higher powered cartridges.  In my opinion this will accelerate, wear will create more wear, at at quicker rate. 

The lugged hammer, as seen on some rifles, helps support the breech block and keep it tight against the barrel.  This lug, with excessive play in pins and parts, could give a person a false sense of safety.

New pins, made from modern high carbon steel, and the other parts case hardened, would really only help with wear not really the design.  Although the modern steel pins would probably resist flexing or bending better than the originals, thus keeping the breech closed tight.

The parts in original actions are low carbon steel and can only be case hardened.  I my opinion, while the case hardening does somewhat toughen up the parts, it really creates just a very hard shell around a soft center, forming a wear resistant part.

All this is just the facts, as I see them, and I’m not trying to scare anyone from shooting their rifles. I own 44’s and am not one bit worried about them.  As far as your rifle goes, if still tight, keep shooting it.  Keep pressures reasonably low and have fun.  If you start seeing looseness, address it quickly.
Bob

Bob much thanks for your analysis and not to worry about disclaimers and caveats your reputation and accomplishments speak for themself. I'm just tickled to have you jump in and impart some of your wisdom. As for case hardening I agree. I worked revolvers for a few years and my go-to sources and instructors always explained that parts that were case hardened were only .002 -.003" deep. 

Thanks again
Rick