hopkinskid wrote yesterday at 11:05am:


Never had one that was heavy in all the dozens of Ballard rifles I've owned. But it wouldn't be a simple task since the Ballard single trigger actions use a C shaped flat spring for trigger return spring. I know some have made new springs from lightweight material like the return springs in tape measures by annealing them to allow the sharp bend, then quenching them again. 
The vast majority of issues come up when the internals of the breech blocks are extremely grungy and dirty, and a good cleaning, and oiling of pivot points will normally make the triggers much nicer.
If a mainspring is replaced they are often too heavy which will also increase trigger pull, and lightening the mainspring a little helps. But need to be careful and only sand or polish it lengthwise or chance it breaking if ground crossways. Or being too weak if ground too far.
Toughest part is reassembling the block halves the first couple times. Once you've done it a few times it becomes an easy task. Then get a set trigger block and it's a whole different animal to learn to assemble!

Thanks, guys!

cellargun wrote Today at 9:29am:


Speaking of geometry, I have a Danish rolling block that you can see the hammer move back as you slowly pull the trigger. 

So far as the Lee Shaver article, trigger jobs and geometry are covered in most gunsmithing books better than what you see in online articles.