Vall, the disc looks like shingles, overlapping each section.  I use the 36 grit and stiff enough you can put lots of pressure on it if you want too.  I know there is a rasp like cutter and would probably try one except our hardware store doesn’t carry it.  For 3 buck each I just use these.  One does a one stock unless the wood is rock hard.

Normally the grinding takes me 15-20 minutes.  But the day I did this one it was 10 degrees.  I’m not know for wearing a coat, so I would work for a few minutes until my hands got cold, then go in, do something else and warm up.  Took 2 hours using this cycle.
Bob

bobw wrote on Feb 5^th, 2026 at 5:48pm:


Thanks Bob! I have bunches of those I use in metal fab work for years. They're what we call flapper discs.

(You need to Login or Register to view media files and links)

Tom decided he would like a horn insert in the forearm and the bottom of the grip.  So, I thought I would show how I did the forearm inlay.

I have used horn in the past for buttplates, grip caps and forearm noses, but had never done an inlay like what is wanted.  This first photo shows what he likes.

Since this is really an inlay, I probably could have installed it like a piece of metal but felt the horn did not have the strength of metal, and it would not take the constant installing and removing while fitting.  So, I made the inlet first and then shaped the horn to fit the inlet.

The inlay is 1 1/4 inch long, 1/4 at the small end and 5/8 at the big end.  

I started by cutting a slot, with my mill, 1/4 inch wide and to the 1 1/4 length, as shown in the second picture.  I could have done this by hand, rather than the mill, but it helps speed up forming the small end and getting to the initial depth.

Photo 3.  I then laid out the inlay, around the slot I cut.  I used a scribe to mark the lines.

Photo 4.  Once laid out, I slightly deepened those line using a straight chisel and gouge style caving tool.  The gouge was the correct curve to follow the curved line on the wide end of the inlay.
When removing the excess wood from an inlay like this I alway start by removing the wood just inside my layout lines.  This picture shows how I am doing this.  I remove the wood to full depth.  By doing this it takes the pressure off the wood removed in the next step, helps give me control where the wood breaks and helps maintain sharp/clean edges.

Photo 5.  Here I have now removed the wood at the front of the inlet.  I'm using the same gouge I deepened the layout lines with.
Bob

Looks like it was born there. Just superb work.