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Need Help with Rolling Block ID (Read 670 times)

Banjo1928 Newbie Offline Posts: 7 Joined: Dec 27^th, 2025	Need Help with Rolling Block ID Dec 29^th, 2025 at 4:31pm	Print Post
	This is my first post here and I'm not 100% sure if my attachment is going to post and be viewable but we'll see. Over Christmas I found a Remington Rolling Block at a LGS. I had always wanted one but know practically nothing about them. What follows is about all I know: It is a sporting rifle. The barrel starts out octagonal then transitions to round. It is a heavy barrel measuring just about 28 inches long. The receiver is 1.25 inches wide. There is no half cock. The seller said that it was originally chambered in .38 rim fire but someone had modified it for the .38 Long Colt. The patent stamp appears to say “May 3 1864, May 7 June 11 Nov 12, Dec 24 Dec 31 1872, Sept 9 1873”. While I have not “slugged” the barrel with something that fits, a modern .38 bullet pretty much drops through with almost no pressure required to push it. I plan to do a chamber casting at some point soon. That said, I took a .38 special case and used it to do a rough chamber measurement and it does appear to be the correct length for a .38 Long Colt but seems to be a larger diameter. The chamber and the barrel may just be that worn. I’m hoping the old .38 rim fire bullets were just a bit bigger than today’s .38s and that’s why my bullet dropped through so easily. The extractor is toast with the rim end broken off and the other worn down considerably. The action seems to lock up tight. The breach closes with a snap and the hammer sits down tight over the firing pin. There doesn’t seem to be any play in the moving parts. I have no idea how old it might be. I see lots of descriptions that say things like a No1 Rolling Block or a No5 Rolling Block. I’m hoping the experts can tell me what I have. I can take more photos if need be. Thank you for giving this a look.


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ssdave Frequent Elocutionist Offline Posts: 2093 Location: Eastern Oregon Joined: Apr 16^th, 2004	Re: Need Help with Rolling Block ID Reply #1 - Dec 29^th, 2025 at 5:42pm	Print Post
	It's an original 38 rimfire Rolling Block #1 sporter. The caliber/cartridge choice is unfortunate, due to a change in 38 caliber dimensions between original rifles and later pistol cartridges. The 38 rimfire was .375 diameter, with a heeled bullet, so the case was .376. The 38 colt was .357 bullet, .377 neck. So, it appears the case will work, but it won't hold a normal .375 bullet. The twist on these is real slow, because original bullets were 140 and 150 grains. To make this work, you'll have to figure out a heeled bullet mold, with a light weight. Can you show a picture of the ear and the face of the breechblock? I'm curious how the rimfire conversion was accomplished.


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oneatatime Frequent Elocutionist Offline Posts: 4235 Location: Rocky Mountains Joined: Oct 30^th, 2011	Re: Need Help with Rolling Block ID Reply #2 - Dec 29^th, 2025 at 5:58pm	Print Post
	How about this? (You need to *Login* or *Register* to view media files and links)


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kootne Senior Forum Member Offline Posts: 465 Location: Libby, Mt. Joined: Mar 6^th, 2012	Re: Need Help with Rolling Block ID Reply #3 - Dec 29^th, 2025 at 6:25pm	Print Post
	Nice old Remington, Made before the bankrupture in 1888. Those highside receivers seem to be the last variation of the E. Rem & Sons rifles, should be a serial# on the lower tang. Sporting #1's peaked out around 12,500. Check with Kenn about an extractor; info@rollingblockparts. com 1-775-423-0810

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Banjo1928 Newbie Offline Posts: 7 Joined: Dec 27^th, 2025	Re: Need Help with Rolling Block ID Reply #4 - Dec 29^th, 2025 at 6:40pm	Print Post
	Thanks to all! That was fast and great info. I will send the requested photos. The number on the lower tang is 8661


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marlinguy Frequent Elocutionist Offline Ballards may be weaker, but they sure are neater! Posts: 17508 Location: Oregon Joined: Feb 2^nd, 2009	Re: Need Help with Rolling Block ID Reply #5 - Dec 29^th, 2025 at 7:02pm	Print Post
	If the .38 Special is loose then someone reamed or drilled the chamber out. The .38 Long, .38 Long Colt, and .38 Special are all the same diameter cases, it's just the bullet diameter that is different for the .38 Special. The other two are both heeled bullets that are larger diameter. It's possible it was indeed a .38 Long rimfire, but that's not a different diameter case, it's the same as the centerfire, and the same as the .38 Long Colt. Unfortunately if someone reamed the chamber out where the .38 Special is too loose, then nothing will fit it now. Only real option would be to have the bore lined with a liner in .357" and chamber it for the .38 Special. That would make it a good shooter, and inexpensive to shoot also. The extractor appears to be home made and wont work well with the way they shaped the hook. Kenn Womack at Rolling Block Parts sells new ones that will be great.

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oneatatime Frequent Elocutionist Offline Posts: 4235 Location: Rocky Mountains Joined: Oct 30^th, 2011	Re: Need Help with Rolling Block ID Reply #6 - Dec 29^th, 2025 at 7:46pm	Print Post
	How about a 38 S&W? Case diameter .3855, bullet .3610. If it chambers, shoot a few and see how it goes.
	« Last Edit: Dec 29^th, 2025 at 8:38pm by oneatatime »

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art_ruggiero Frequent Elocutionist Offline Posts: 1200 Location: CT Joined: Dec 14^th, 2008	Re: Need Help with Rolling Block ID Reply #7 - Dec 30^th, 2025 at 8:43am	Print Post
	how about 38 smith &wesson art


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marlinguy Frequent Elocutionist Offline Ballards may be weaker, but they sure are neater! Posts: 17508 Location: Oregon Joined: Feb 2^nd, 2009	Re: Need Help with Rolling Block ID Reply #8 - Dec 30^th, 2025 at 3:40pm	Print Post
	oneatatime wrote on Dec 29^th, 2025 at 7:46pm: How about a 38 S&W? Case diameter .3855, bullet .3610. If it chambers, shoot a few and see how it goes. Good thought Chauncey! It might have been opened up for the .38 S&W a much older cartridge, and a weird choice if they did.

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Banjo1928 Newbie Offline Posts: 7 Joined: Dec 27^th, 2025	Re: Need Help with Rolling Block ID Reply #9 - Dec 30^th, 2025 at 4:10pm	Print Post
	The .38 S&W sounds promising. Thank you this is a lot of info to digest. I came to the right place. I have hopefully attached the photo of the breech block requested.


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ssdave Frequent Elocutionist Offline Posts: 2093 Location: Eastern Oregon Joined: Apr 16^th, 2004	Re: Need Help with Rolling Block ID Reply #10 - Dec 30^th, 2025 at 4:24pm	Print Post
	That appears to be an original breech block, not converted to centerfire from rimfire. Usable as is, if you use it a lot, I'd have the block bushed and cleaned up and make a new firing pin.


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oneatatime Frequent Elocutionist Offline Posts: 4235 Location: Rocky Mountains Joined: Oct 30^th, 2011	Re: Need Help with Rolling Block ID Reply #11 - Dec 30^th, 2025 at 5:03pm	Print Post
	I have a WWII British Enfield revolver in 38 S&W (the Brits called it 38/200 and they ordered S&W model 10s in that cartridge and after the war when they were returned to S&W some got rechambered to 38 Special which didn't turn out well). The 38 S&W cartridge was developed in 1877 (also known as the Colt New Police) Using the 200 grain bullet accounts for the high front sights on the Enfields and they have to be lowered to shoot lighter bullets. A little more useless information is that in the early 1970s the Enfield MK Is (which had been standard police issue in odd British places and had no hammer spurs hence DA only) flooded the States and were sold for $14.95. Note - I'm not saying it has to be 200 grains, that would be rare in this country at this time. I shoot any standard 38 weight bullets in the Enfield after I lowered the front sight. I see Midway USA has ammo in stock with 145 grain round nose bullets which would be more appropriate for available in the US ammo.
	« Last Edit: Dec 30^th, 2025 at 6:13pm by oneatatime »

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kootne Senior Forum Member Offline Posts: 465 Location: Libby, Mt. Joined: Mar 6^th, 2012	Re: Need Help with Rolling Block ID Reply #12 - Dec 30^th, 2025 at 6:48pm	Print Post
	The breech block could have been replaced with a C.F. block if it was originally a R.F. I would slug the bore before you spend any money, a 38 S&W is probably a good choice for the brass but 38 S&W bullets are almost guaranteed to be undersized a bunch, Best bet as mentioned is a heel bullet mold from Accurate or OLD WEST MOLDS, or find an old #2 Lyman tong tool for 38 LOL (long, outside lubed) or #8 38 LIL (38 long, inside lubed) which will use a longer case and cast a hollow base undersize bullet.

	You can't make good decisions without good information.
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Banjo1928 Newbie Offline Posts: 7 Joined: Dec 27^th, 2025	Re: Need Help with Rolling Block ID Reply #13 - Dec 30^th, 2025 at 8:31pm	Print Post
	I will slug the barrel and cast the chamber and see what's what before I do anything else. I really like this rifle and would love to see it back in action. I had been using an 1873 trapdoor made in 1874 as my go to single shot but I try not to abuse it. This looks like an excellent project. Thank you all again so much for the great info. I will let you know the results of my casting etc.


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Timetripper Full Member Offline Posts: 140 Location: Carlisle Joined: Mar 4^th, 2013	Re: Need Help with Rolling Block ID Reply #14 - Dec 30^th, 2025 at 9:48pm	Print Post
	Good luck with you "project", and please let us know how it pans out. The bore does look fairly nice so I hope you can get her shooting without much trouble. Am looking forward to seeing what it slugs out to. John


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waterman Frequent Elocutionist Offline Posts: 2944 Location: Behind the Redwood Curtain Joined: Jun 9^th, 2004	Re: Need Help with Rolling Block ID Reply #15 - Dec 31^st, 2025 at 12:16pm	Print Post
	oneatatime wrote on Dec 30^th, 2025 at 5:03pm: I have a WWII British Enfield revolver in 38 S&W (the Brits called it 38/200 and they ordered S&W model 10s in that cartridge and after the war when they were returned to S&W some got rechambered to 38 Special which didn't turn out well). The 38 S&W cartridge was developed in 1877 (also known as the Colt New Police) Using the 200 grain bullet accounts for the high front sights on the Enfields and they have to be lowered to shoot lighter bullets. A little more useless information is that in the early 1970s the Enfield MK Is (which had been standard police issue in odd British places and had no hammer spurs hence DA only) flooded the States and were sold for $14.95. Note - I'm not saying it has to be 200 grains, that would be rare in this country at this time. I shoot any standard 38 weight bullets in the Enfield after I lowered the front sight. I see Midway USA has ammo in stock with 145 grain round nose bullets which would be more appropriate for available in the US ammo. OT, but the 200 grain bullets are much more accurate in these revolvers than the lighter bullets.


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oneatatime Frequent Elocutionist Offline Posts: 4235 Location: Rocky Mountains Joined: Oct 30^th, 2011	Re: Need Help with Rolling Block ID Reply #16 - Dec 31^st, 2025 at 1:41pm	Print Post
	Yes, it is what these revolvers were designed for but the trick for 38 S&W is finding common 38 moulds that cast .361 or .362 or so. If I had it to do over again (after 50 years!) I would just order what I needed from Accurate Molds. I just looked in the way back file for loads I had tried and the most accurate (remember it is DA only) was what I show as a 200 (probably was 358430 which I don't have anymore) and 3.3 grains of Herco. This has gotten me interested and I would play with it again but offhand I can't find my box of brass and just have the 5 rounds I keep in the revolver (empty chamber under the hammer) as it is my only loaded gun in the house. A little rolling block in 38 S&W would be fun to play with using the right bullet.
	« Last Edit: Dec 31^st, 2025 at 1:49pm by oneatatime »

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Banjo1928 Newbie Offline Posts: 7 Joined: Dec 27^th, 2025	Re: Need Help with Rolling Block ID Reply #17 - Jan 3^rd, 2026 at 9:38pm	Print Post
	First of all, full disclosure this was my first chamber cast, but the casting went well. I was unable to find a suitable bullet to use in slugging the barrel so I hacked off a piece of lead hammered it roundish and tapped it down the barrel with a brass rod. So that all went well, turns out I can’t take a measurement to save my life. I have included the numbers I ended up with but keep in mind just about each time I tried I came up with a different number. All that said, while it may be a .38 Long Colt, it seems to me that any way you slice it the chamber appears to be tapered. Enough of a taper that I would be afraid that even with the correct hipped bullet I’m not sure the case wouldn’t just split as it tried to expand into that chamber. I could be wrong I’m obviously no gun smith. I think I may be to the point of taking the suggestion of having it sleeved with something fun to shoot and plentiful like a .38 special or something. Any thoughts on this and recommendations on who does this type of work are appreciated. I really do like this old rifle and would love to see it shoot again.


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Banjo1928 Newbie Offline Posts: 7 Joined: Dec 27^th, 2025	Re: Need Help with Rolling Block ID Reply #18 - yesterday at 9:18am	Print Post
	I need to pay more attention when I posted the above I thought Timetrippers reply was the last one on page 1 not noticing there was a page 2. All of the replies have been super helpful this is a great forum. I need to get my Trapdoor out so I brag on a single shot I own that actually works.


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marlinguy Frequent Elocutionist Offline Ballards may be weaker, but they sure are neater! Posts: 17508 Location: Oregon Joined: Feb 2^nd, 2009	Re: Need Help with Rolling Block ID Reply #19 - yesterday at 10:46am	Print Post
	I have the same rifle I bought locally at our collector gun show that was relined and chambered for .38 Special. I really like it, even though it's not a traditional chambering I would have chosen. I'd have had it I'd have had it bored and re-rifled to .38-55 myself, but it does shoot really well as a .38 Special. I've shot it out to 500 yds. using a 158 grain round nose bullet, and it's very accurate. More hits at 400 yds. with me shooting, so I keep it at 400 yds. or less.

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Banjo1928 Newbie Offline Posts: 7 Joined: Dec 27^th, 2025	Re: Need Help with Rolling Block ID Reply #20 - yesterday at 2:57pm	Print Post
	That sounds like a reasonable way to go.


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