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Packet
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Color case hardening
Nov 21st, 2025 at 6:26pm
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I have a question about this. I'm a gunsmith and have for the first time a customer who wants to have his rolling block receiver color cased. I have removed all pitting and finished down to 320 grit. I can go further but I don't know what condition the people who do this would want it in. I'm thinking maybe about 600, or do they finish it to what they want for me? Anyone here who can recommend more info or, a person or Co. that does a very nice job?
  
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TomKlinger
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Re: Color case hardening
Reply #1 - Nov 21st, 2025 at 6:49pm
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Packet,
320 is where you need to be. Was the action annealed? It should be to prevent stress and warpage. The person that does the case hardening work will anneal and polish before case hardening.


Tom Klinger
  
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Re: Color case hardening
Reply #2 - Nov 21st, 2025 at 8:21pm
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Tom, that is good news. Thank you very much for the info.
  
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Packet
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Re: Color case hardening
Reply #3 - Nov 21st, 2025 at 8:29pm
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Tom, to answer your question about annealing, I don't know. I do know that the action is a #1 Remington, older than the military #5 which I understand that the 5 is constructed of superior steel.
  
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ssdave
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Re: Color case hardening
Reply #4 - Nov 21st, 2025 at 9:02pm
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The #1 and the #5 are for all intents and purposes the same steel.  Unless you annealed it, the action is very unlikely to be annealed.  I would recommend doing that before you shape and polish it, as it reduces the work difficulty by quite a bit.  As mentioned before, it is really necessary to anneal before case coloring anyway, so might as well get the benefit of it in the rework labor savings.

(You need to Login or Register to view media files and links); Allen Springer is the man you want to talk to about color case, as well as do the work.  He does excellent work with a quick turn-around.  He also does true color case hardening, not just coloring of the steel.  Some of the more well known case color companies only color, they don't appreciably change the hardness.  If you don't have a heat treat furnace to anneal, Allen will do it for you for the postage cost, if you  have him do the case color.  At least that's the offer he's always made to me.  I've had him do several, and all have been excellent, and warp free in the final product.
  
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Packet
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Re: Color case hardening
Reply #5 - Nov 21st, 2025 at 10:30pm
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ssdave, thank you for the info and link. Looking forward to talking with them.
  
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Schuetzendave
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Re: Color case hardening
Reply #6 - Nov 22nd, 2025 at 1:22am
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Sanded to 400 grit.

Bone charcoal color case hardened.
  
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Old-Win
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Re: Color case hardening
Reply #7 - Nov 22nd, 2025 at 7:28am
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Why do you want to bring it up to temperature twice. Isn't the action being annealed during the case hardening process?
  
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marlinguy
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Re: Color case hardening
Reply #8 - Nov 22nd, 2025 at 11:41am
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Old-Win wrote on Nov 22nd, 2025 at 7:28am:
Why do you want to bring it up to temperature twice. Isn't the action being annealed during the case hardening process?


Not from what Al Springer has told me. Not sure he brings the actions up to CCH temps to anneal them though? 
I have sent Al actions to be annealed before polishing, but I've also polished out even more without annealing before sending them to Al. Only reason I have had some annealed first was because they needed more work than just polishing. Like when I use military Rolling Block actions to build Sporting actions and I need to thin and narrow the top tangs to Sporting contours.
Always polished them with 320 grit, and never with brand new 320 grit for the final pass. As it gets worn the finish gets much more polished than when I start with new sandpaper.
This is one built on a military action that Al CCH for me.
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n.r.davis
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Re: Color case hardening
Reply #9 - Nov 22nd, 2025 at 7:42pm
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I've read old machining books and Annealing is done around 1700 degrees where Case Hardening is done around 1300 degrees.  Came across a reference that 1400 degrees is needed to get the Carbon into the metal.  So folks that only heat to 1250 or so unless there is already a Case are not doing much more than a Cosmetic job.  Fascinating to read the old books remembering those guys needed to produce results and make a profit.  There is so much out there in the way of information and the challenge is to know what's good information.  David
  
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TomKlinger
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Re: Color case hardening
Reply #10 - yesterday at 12:21pm
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n.r.davis,
Most people who understand the true CCH process run the temperature up well over your stated 1300* for a set time then lower the temperature back to 1300* before quenching to get good colors and prevent warping. Most people won’t tell you the exact process just there quench temperature….

Tom Klinger
  
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Andover Arms
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Re: Color case hardening
Reply #11 - yesterday at 12:45pm
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My 2 cents, I generally polish to 600. As with bluing I have found the better the polish the better the end result. We have to remember that the colors our eyes see are a reflection of light off the different types of iron oxides formed in the case layer when we quench it. Anything that limits that reflection mutes the colors including whatever finish you apply afterwards. As for annealing, sometimes I do and sometimes I don't. It is really dependent on the receiver/frame. Some guns have a glass hard case, and no file will cut into them, so they need annealing. Most of the old receivers we like are fairly soft metal with a thin hardness layer and the "polishing process", other than obvious, is to remove the old case-hardened layer. Also of note, whether the receiver is annealed prior to polish or not, is that the hardened receiver has to be tempered after quenching to lessen the brittleness. There is a lot more to it, but for what it's worth to answer your questions.
  
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Gew98
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Re: Color case hardening
Reply #12 - yesterday at 1:47pm
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My gunsmith local to me does some beautiful case hardening finishes.
  
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Gew98
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Re: Color case hardening
Reply #13 - yesterday at 1:47pm
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flip side
  
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