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Those actions were not hardened, and it is particularly important to harden the block, hammer, and firing pin. Also, check the radial geometry of the hammer where it slides under the breechblock, to make sure it is tangent and not camming.
These actions had two "open breech firing" problems.
The first, was that the firing pin, block, and hammer all deformed and mushroomed, and sometimes that resulted in the firing pin sticking, and firing the cartridge when the block was closed, of course resulting in it blowing back open.
The second was that Pedersoli, the maker, changed the Remington geometry slightly to allow the hammer to cam the breechblock closed. They figured it was an improvement, is my guess, and on the face of it, it is. However, if the surfaces are smooth, particularly if there is oil present, the breechblock thrust can "squeeze" the hammer surface back via the cam surface, cocking the hammer and allowing the breech block to open. There were multiple instances of this, fortunately I don't think there were any serious injuries, most of the shooters had tang sights and the tang sight and/or the hammer spur deflected the brass case up and over the shooters head. All they got was the gas blow back.
Lee Shaver at one time would weld up the breech blocks and cut them radial to correct the problem. Steve Durren many years ago in his series in the ASSRA Journal on how to sporterize and restore rolling blocks also similarly demonstrated how to repair a hammer that was worn.
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Receiver barrel thread (Read 509 times)
