Hi Members. I've been spending some time working on my Swedish RB that I purchased from Simpson Ltd. the other year. Pewter nosecap has been poured and new wood from Treebone carving is fitted.
Currently, I'm working on the receiver and trigger guard to get them ready for CCH. 
My rifle has the large paddle on the breech block. It's not a look that I like but I can see that it would be very functional in a battle situation. 
I like the looks of the original Remington upward positioned breech block lever. Could I change out the breech block or would it be more bother than what it's worth? Can I rework the original lever to a different shape?
Just thought that I would reach out to the forum for some ideas

Hi Dave. Thanks for your response. My rifle has the Remington style button so I'm good that way.
I don't have access to other breech blocks to try for fitment. I suppose I could fab a different style ear and weld it on the block, but that seems like it wouldn't be worth the effort.

fjrdoc wrote on Sep 3^rd, 2025 at 5:41pm:


I simply made a new lever that looks like the Sporting style and cut the old sideways large lever off. Then took my new lever to a local guy I use for tig welding and had him tig weld it on. Once he was done I filed and dressed it, then checkered the lever with my thread file to make it look better. 
I like the hammer and breech blocks blued as it makes a nice contrast to the beautiful case colors, and rust bluing them wont make the welds a different color either.

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I streamline the military lower trigger plates to Sporting width, and round the trigger guard also to Sporting shape. Or switch out the trigger plates to a pistol grip plate.

fjrdoc wrote on Sep 4^th, 2025 at 6:36pm:


I've have borken levers welded back on, and also made new ones and had them welded on, both with tig welds. Never had any issues with heat being an issue, but tig doesn't heat the metal like mig or gas welding does. 
I used the 16 tpi side of my thread file at 45 degrees to make a cross hatch pattern. Nice and sharp, and the hammers cut fairly easy. The hammer in the picture I posted started life as a big ugly military hammer too, but I copied the hammer on one of my Sporters to reshape it, and checkered it the same way also.

fjrdoc wrote on Sep 5^th, 2025 at 1:05pm:


I don't own a tig welder either, so I pay a guy to do it. I'd suggest doing the same to ensure less heat, and avoid porosity that wont be an issue with a tig weld. 
Lots of pictures of sporting hammers to view to rework the hammers, and plenty of metal to allow reshaping without doing anything but remove metal.

fjrdoc wrote on Sep 7^th, 2025 at 7:04am:


I think you'll do great once you have the spur lever welded and shaped. You'll be surprised how easily the spur and hammer spur both file once you start working on them. If it helps I can post a closeup picture of a Sporting block and hammer spur to get an idea of how they look?

I think that I've located someone to TIG weld my breech lever.  I'm going to sent my receiver, trigger guard and shotgun butt plate away to have them CCH.
The shop that will be doing the CCH will also do the breech and hammer in order to prevent receiver distortion.
I think that I would like to either blue the breech and hammer or possibly polish these pieces. Is that possible to do after they have been CCH?

Along the same line we have made a couple of left hand rolling block rifle by "moving" the breech block thumb piece from the right side to the left side of the block.  The TIG, in the right hands, makes for a very clean remodel.