I have a Martini Cadet I would like to either rebarrel or rebore. Unfortunately, I do not have the machinery or knowledge to do it myself. 
Does anyone know of any gunsmiths who still do this type of work on Cadets?
Thanks!

John’s correct on the options. I would add the reline he did for me on a poor bore 1892 Marlin is perfect. Shoots like a new rifle, externally impossible to detect bore is lined. Makers marks all preserved.

Boats

I read this with interest as I am looking for a complete action. I have barrel and wood just need an action.


JMH

Now why didn't I think of that? Going to do it right now.



JMH

DoubleD wrote on Jun 3^rd, 2025 at 10:43am:

I have a few cadets myself. A .222R a .310 cadet complete and original, A .25-35 and a 357 Magnum. All great shooters! The one I am interested in reboring has already been "sporterized" by shortening and reshaping the forearm(I actually have an original I could replace that with), So was thinking I needed perhaps a .357 Maximum or a 17 Hornet(obviously a rebarrel or sleeve on the .17).
I absolutely agree with you on the .310 being a great shooter as mine shoots better than I can hold. So many guns, So little time!
Thank you for the suggestion though, And I do agree. On the other side of this subject though is there are very few smiths left who work on Cadets. And they are all getting up there in years. Pretty soon what you have is going to be it unless you can do the work.

Eric

Martini Cadet 310 rebarreled to 218 Bee by Ron Smith of RKS Enterprises.

Able to shoot with either a scope or Anschutz iron sights.

Back when I was doing these guns we grinded the load tray in the top of the blocks to get .357 Max to fit.  Those teaching,  and I  did not know how properly adjust these breech blocks for load height and striker impact (adjust for centerfire and rimfire.) Later when I visited a couple of different English Gunsmiths-who made it clear the  American school was wrong and I acquired a copy of the Armorers Manual, did I learn how do it right.

The book is available form Amazon for $6. If you work on Martini it will make job so much simpler. 

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gnoahhh wrote on Jun 3^rd, 2025 at 9:29pm:


Sorry I got caught up in the the lever and missed your second paragraph.

What you are describing is how a Martini works.   

When opening to extract a cartridge, you should pull the lever down with vigor, snapping the action open, slapping the extractor tails with breech block. The Martine extractor works by inertia.   Works well with most standard or low pressure cartridges that have tapered cases.  Higher pressure straight cartridges have a tendency to stick.  Mashburn Bees extract beautifully, K-Hornet's give me fits.

If you just lower the lever down, there is no inertia to make things work.

The Martini has a load position.  Properly adjusted to load, tilt the barrel down, drop a cartridge on the trough on top of the  breech block,  pull the lever down and the cartridge should slide down and into the chamber.  Release the lever and the  breech block should just pop back-up slightly covering the bottom f the cartridge holding it in the chamber.

You should also be able push a a cartridge in the chamber with your thumb.  The breech block will go down to admit the cartridge and pop up behind the cartridge, holding it in the chamber.

The breech block when open should be cover the bottom of the chamber slightly. Pulling down the lever should lower the block under spring tension.   

All the instructions for adjusting Martini can be found in the  Instructions for Armorers.