The first step was to machine and then stone the lever to width. Fortunately, the casting from CPA has the sides parallel. I milled each side down approximately 0.014" which left the lever about 0.002" oversize. I then stoned each side to polish and final fit them so that the lever slides into the bottom of the action and moves freely, but has no slop. The following pictures show the lever as received and a couple post machining compared to the original lever.

The next step in the process was to file the head of the lever to shape. I laid the old lever on the new and used the #13 and "L" drills as guide pins to trace the outline of the old lever onto the new one. Then it was a matter of files and stones to get the shape correct.

Unfortunately, I forgot to take pictures of the next two steps, which were to mill the slot that the link fits in and drill the hole for the lever plunger and spring. I used a 1/4" center cutting end mill for both steps. I laid the old lever on the new and used the #13 and "L" drills as guide pins to to mark the angle for the link pin slot and then clamped the new lever in my mill vise with axis for the bottom of the link pin slot parallel to the mill table. After milling the slot I indexed the hole location and plunge milled the hole. Getting the pivot slot and plunger hole locations and depths correct was the hardest part of fitting the lever.