Greg is absolutely right. The wood looks like a single piece of beautiful walnut with a Hepburn action sitting on it near the middle. 
I have a favorite rifle that Bob has built, but it may soon fall into second place. However, that won't be any shameful change, they are all stunning. 

Pretty darn sexy Bob!!

Continuing with the forearm.

Photo 1.  This shows how close I rasp the wood down to the action frame, showing what I mean about it being close to the final profile.

Photo 2.  I've talked lots about guide or layout lines, and here's more about them.  There maybe people that can shape a stock without lines, but I'm not one of them.  In this picture I'm showing the layout lines for the full width of the forearm.  These may be narrower, against the barrel, than many may realize.  At the rear, in front of the frame, it's 3/32 or .093 wide agains the barrel.  At the front .070.  I simply use a drill bit to measure at each of these points.  The sides will be cut down, to these lines, square to the top barrel flat.  Visually, from the top, these flats will get narrower a I shape the sides and radius up from the side layout line.

Photo 3.  The layout line used for the the side shaping.  The wood above and below this line will be removed and modeled into the top line, along the barrel, and the lower center line that I will show next.  Although I said the profile needed to be very close to the final shape, that's not true of this line.  I will move this line, as I see the need, for the look I want to the modeling.  This also shows the thumb nail extension off the of the frame which needs to be shaped and properly flow into the forearm.

Photo 4.  More on lines!  This bottom center line keeps all shaping centered to the frame.  I have also added the schnabel side line for shaping later.

Photo 5.  Here I am finally starting to shape the forearm.  I always start at the bottom at a shallow angle to the flat bottom, cutting up close but not to the pencil line.  As can be seen I have worked both sides down the same amount....give or take a little.  By staying short of the center line gives me the ability to radius, to the line later, as I progress in the shaping, without ending up with a flat spot in this area.  I don't really work the schnabel much at this point.
Bob

Photo 1.  Continuing the rounding of the wood.  I'm still not working the schnabel.  At this point I'm using clamps to hold the forearm in place.  As I get closer to the final size I will get the screw in place to hold the forearm.  Then I can work the whole forearm, including the schnabel much easier.  I make the screw and brass insert and I need the wood fairly close to the finished size in order to get them correctly sized to the forearm. I'm also not working the thumb nail extension coming off the frame.  This takes much finer tools to shape, so I will work it later.

Photo 2 and 3. It's hard to show this rounding but these are an attempt.

Photo 4.  Here I have started the rounding above the side line.  This is tough to do with the barrel in place but I get it started and then remove the forearm wood and finish.  This also continues the narrowing of the wood showing, from above, against the barrel.  And while doing this I do bump the barrel some, but since I have not draw filed the top flats, or polished any, these will cleanup when I do.  

Photo 5.  This is bottom view after rough shaping both sides.  All the layout lines are still in place.
Bob

I for one look forward to you shaping those thumbnail portions front of the action. Selfishly, as I have to do one this winter myself.

rifleman wrote on Oct 9^th, 2025 at 2:02pm:


It coming, I’m working up to posts on this Jordan.
Bob

I think these two picture are self explanatory.  Rough shaping the schnabel.  I'l show the refining of this later.
Bob

Holy moly. Look at that figure right at the schnabel! You planned that perfectly.