Oh, I don't know if the British would abhor your work. But I do know that everyone here thinks it's pretty damn nice. 
I ran a cabinet shop for some time and always felt like I was cheating a customer if I didn't use some filler in each piece- I didn't cheat many, but I can really dig a stock as nice as the ones you turn out.

Man the butt end of that blank is so nice its a shame to cover it up with a plate.

Bob, I can't imagine that anyone else would analyze how screws work, how they should therefore be made and fitted, and then actually do so as precisely as you do.  Not even the storied Brits.

Bill Lawrence

I like your freestyle method of using 1 2 3 blocks and toe clamps to hold your work. Reminds me of my early days in the machine shop. My shop lead would sometimes criticize my set up. I found early on you use what you have on hand to get a good rigid set up. I also found out early on you had better have some good set index points for x and y axis in case you needed to remove the part for some reason. I always tried to make sure and do all the operations I needed to under one set up. That is going to be one heck of a stock...



JMH

Thanks gentlemen. 

I know stocking a gun from a bank can be intimidating. But really, it's just a series of carefully planned steps.  But after a couple stocks it really doesn't even take much planning.  Inletting the tang and buttplate are the toughest part.  Once they are done it's just a matter of removing wood.

Layout lines are really necessary for me to shape out the wood.  You will see in these pictures many of the line.  

Here's a list of the lines I use.

1.  Center line running along the top and bottom of the stock, coming off the tang centers to the center of the buttplate.
2.  A line down each side showing the high point or thickness of the stock.  It runs from the approximate center of the grip to the thickest part of the buttplate.  I call it a light line, because once the wood is finished the light reflects down this line.  Depending on the style of stock this line can be either straight or curved.  This line should end up looking smooth and clean, with no ripples or wavering.  I also make the wood along this line straight and flat, front to rear, with no thickening like seen on many modern stocks.  By doing this I believe it gives the stock a slimmer, less heavy look.
3.  If the rifle has a curved grip or wrist, this line it drawn on each side. I like to to see this line showing the grip slightly thicker at the bottom than the top.  
4.  A center line on the grip.  This is the thickest part of the grip and the light line I mentioned above.
5.  If the rifle has a cheek rest that is drawn on the wood.
6.  On top, I also put a line on each side of center, showing the tapered comb line looking at it from the top.  This is an angled line using the thickest part at the heel of the buttplate, to the nose of the comb.  At the nose I keep it wide to start, giving me freedom to make adjustments as I shape out the wood.
7.  If the buttplate had a square bottom, like a #6 Ballard will  have, there would be similar lines here, to the comb.
8.  I also indicate where any special features may be, like the panels coming off the back of frame that make the transition from the flat frame to the round grip.
9.  At some point I also put lines on the bottom of the gip, if it is wood and not another material.  These line are just continuations from the other lines.  These helps shape the bottom of the grip.

Once these lines are on the blank they are kept on the wood until it is completed.  Many are removed while shaping but are alway replaced as necessary.
Bob

Continuing with the stocking.

Most of the following is in preparation for grinding the excess wood from the stock using a 4 inch grinder with a course sanding disk.

In this first picture some lines are clearly shown.  The comb line is shaped to within 1/16 inch of final and the lower line is within an 1/8 inch of the final profile.  This picture also shows the roughed in line running through the center, top to bottom, of the stock, or the light line I referred to before. As can be seen, it is a curved line, reflected from the curved profile of the lower stock.

The second picture shows the bottom centering line.

Third shows the top or comb lines.  The center, along with the tapered lines of the top of the comb.

Fourth, At this point I need to find the thickness at the special feature, or thumb nail transition, of the flat frame side.  This is showing me rasping it down to an even dimension from the center line of the rifle frame.  The yellow arrows are showing the cut edge angles, down to my measured thickness mark, that I make before taking the center down.  I sometimes need to make some pencil scribbles on these angles, so when taking down the center section, I can see where I am and what's happening.  They are hard to see but are there in this picture.

Lastly, this is showing what the wood looks like when taken to the thickness I wanted.  This is still thicker than what the final will be, but again, I leave extra wood here for final shaping. 
Bob

Bob, you mentioned a 4" grinder. Is this an angle grinder you're removing wood with, and what grit disc do you use to grind away excess wood?

Today I only had a couple hours to work on the stock.  In this first photo you can see some burning of the wood from the grinder.  I don't normally get this so I think it was just the wood give me the problem.  Everything is still over sized when done grinding so the burning is not a problem.

This first picture also shows the mid line running front to back.  This is the wood, along this line, I was referring to being flat, front to back.

The second photo is showing what I am saying.  This is still showing a small hump in the center area.  At this point in shaping the stock I just get this line close to straight.  It is much easier to finish it after the top and bottom are shaped up to this line, rather than trying to work down a wide flat area of wood like it has now.

The third photo shows the cheek rest side.  Using a simple wood tool to check for straightness over the cheek rest.  Just as the other side, I just rough this down, finishing it as I do the final shaping of the wood.  Working around the cheek rest is normally much harder than the other straight side.

This fourth photo shows the work part way through the afternoon.  Showing much more defined cheek rest.

The last photo is where the day ended.

You can see that stocking a gun is just a series of steps.

This rough shaping is the toughest physically, of stocking a gun from a blank.
Bob