Another update on the making of the trigger/tang frame.  Sorry for the snails pace on this project but it take me lots of studying in order to accomplish some of this machining.  I really don't want to scrap a part because of a mistakes, so far they have been very time consuming to machine, so I do take my time and really study the original part and how to accomplish the work.

The tang is now done and usable enough for me to start making the other parts of the action.  I still need to remove some from the bottom of the interior and open up both the trigger and lever holes in the bottom.  I will do these as I get to making the individual parts.  When Remington made these parts they did a really nice job of fitting the parts to the frame, so I would like to try and duplicate that.

This first picture shows the cutter I needed to make so I could cut the last inside radius in the frame.  I had to make it so it was usable in reaching into the frame.  The diameter is .812 with just under a 1/4 inch shank used to hold it.  The red arrow is pointing to the first radius which I cut using the rotary table and a 1/4 inch end mill.  These two radius (.406) are the same.  The lobe/hump would not allow me use a tool like the one shown here.  I decided to make this tool because it was really tough cutting this tight radius with an end mill, and the tall side against the screw hole would not allow the full rotation of a rotary table.

In this second picture the three arrows, with numbers, show the order I machined each radius.  Numbers 1 and 2 were both cut with a 1/4 inch end milld mill in the rotary table.  Number 3 with the shop made cutter.  You can see the larger radius #2 cut nicer than the tighter radius #1 using the end mill.

The third picture shows a little better look at the machining. All three are for clearance and weight reduction.  #1 is clearance for the breech block rotation, #2 is clearance for the extractor, only machined on this side, and #3 is the clearance for the trigger.

The last picture shows the other side without the extractor cut.  It really shows the difference in how the different machining looks between the two radius's.  #1 is the end mil and rotary table and #3 was done with the shop made cutter.
Bob

I ended up not needing to do anything except round some edges over.  I don't see any light between the back of the front section of the breech block, and the frame.
Nice work Bob!
JP

jhm wrote on Jan 19^th, 2025 at 8:17pm:


Sure do. If you look back a page you can see it working.
Bob

Yes. Pulling the quill is hard on the cuff! I am recovering!

My little quip was meant as a touch of sarcasm. I know all about the quill method as I have employed it more times than I care to remember. Honestly that mortice and block fit is VERY good hence my comment. I have wanted a broaching head for my Bridgeport for years but never found one I could afford.
Again very nice work...



JMH

Bob,
Couple comments if I may, would you agree, fit of breech block against rear shoulder can be controller by the fit of the barrel breech/headspace? And in fact is the very definition of headspace. Within reason of good machining and headspace tolerances. And I do agree clearance on the sides can be a little more relaxed, again within reason. Slop is not a word that should ever be voiced in gun building.
With regard to the Bridgeport broaching head, I did own one for a few yew years and then sold it. I was thrilled to get it but the shine wore off quickly. They are a production tool and really not a one off/prototyping tool. Tedious to set up, taking longer then to just do the job as you have shown so far with, "get it done" attitude. Others may disagree and that's fine but you now know (whether wanted or not) my 2 cents.

Have found it good to lap the shoulders against the breechblock using a tool that applies pressure to the breechblock like a cartridge.
Also lap the face of the breechblock until it is square with the barrel. Very light cuts both places.
Chuck

I needed to trim or thin the belly of the trigger/tang frame so I could fit both the trigger and the lever.  In the end the action side gets blended into the tang frame, being blended to a center line on the bottom.

The first picture shows the layout line and the excess that needs to be removed.   

The second picture shows the roughed out final belly line.   

The blending will start at the line up near the action screw holes and down around to the center of the belly on the bottom.

My intentions are making this gun a pistol gip, more like the 20 some regular Walkers.  At some point I will bend this tang to the shape I want.  Although, this won't be done until I'm comfortable with what the stock will look like.  I'm working on a drawing of the wood....when I get tired of machining steel.  When the drawing is done I will know exactly what bend the tang needs.
Bob