Great work Bob!
Merry Christmas,
JP

Nice work Bob!
Could the extractor slot also be broached?

Got the trigger/lower tang frame fitted to the action frame, and the three screw holes drilled and tapped.  And, they actually all screw in and out nicely!

After that, I've been picking away at the machining of the internal features, which has been very interesting...let alone challenging for my limited experience!

The interesting part is that the center line of the trigger, hammer and finger lever positions are all offset to the right side by about .030, but the individual parts are machined to bring the operating portion back to the center.   I'm still not 100% sure why and was going to just center everything, but in the end, decided to copy what Remington did and not take a chance on running into issues because of the change.  While I'm not 100% sure why, I believe, it's because of the extractor and the way they worked it into the frame.

In the first picture I am using the mill to help laying out the tang top surface.  All my dimensions are measured from the center line of the two screw holes.  The jig that the tang is setting on aligns the pin center line with the front surface of the jig. This way I have a way to set it up and align it properly in the mill so all my measurements work as planned.  The pins are different sizes and are centered exactly .750 back from the edge, so I zero the mill at that point and work from my original dimensions from there.

Tang is rough machine in this second picture.

In this third picture I have machined the center to what I believe to be the final dimensions.  Look close and you can see the offset by the different thickness of the sides.

In the last picture the tang is in the action frame.  The frames looking a little rough but it will get better as I get closer to being finished.  Each side is still .010 thicker than the final and they will be finished on the surface grinder just before final polishing.
Bob

I was at a point where I needed to deal with the extractor cut in the frame...which I had been avoiding.  So I ended up making a tool to basically scrape it out, like was done for cleaning up the breech block mortice.  This slot is only .112 wide, I was concerned about tool flex, so the upper portion of the tool is quite heavy.  My thoughts being to keep the tool as rigid as possible, as far down as I could.  Setup in the mill and just pulling the quill handle down forcing the cutting tool through the frames steel, advancing a few thousands at a time, working the lever until the cutter doesn't cut anymore then advancing.

This first picture is the tool mounted in the mill and aligned with the frame for cutting the extractor slot.  You might notice I did not use a carbide insert this time.  I tried but, even being very careful not to over heat the carbide while sharpening, I could not get the carbide to stay on the holder.  So I ended up making it from tool steel, definitely not the best but worked well enough.

The second is the tool at work.

The third photo is what the chips look like.

The fourth photo shows the completed slot.  It actually work well, other than the tool getting dull in the last half of the operation.  I kept touching it up with diamond files.   

The last photo shows what the slot looks like at the top, in the threaded area.  Looks like the tool flexed away a small amount at it's tip.  I can still fit a .110 gage block in the slot and the arm of the extractor is .106, so it should work.  If not, I'll work this down some.
Bob

Well done, Bob. Used to think the extractor recess was the most difficult cut to build an action, but you have discovered tougher cuts on this action.
BTW, have used 1/8" lathe cutoff blades to make a cutter for this type of slots. Built in relief.
Chuck

bobw wrote on Jan 13^th, 2025 at 12:03pm:
I am pretty sure you are seeing that, I think I saw it pretty quickly also, and I agree Old Man Remington, (president of Remington at the time upon seeing it) said, "what, why would we want that, and are you crazy" to the designer/engineer. Probably a marketing goo roo's idea. Hated those wizards with their hair brain ideas for new products when I worked in R&D engineering for Honeywell.

Today I cut the inside radius of the trigger guard, the position where the breech block drops in and forces the block to rotate back.  What a project!   I found that the tighter radius, versus the large radius's in the frame, did not cut very well.  The end mill did not like it at all, they needed to be long in order to get the full radius cut.  I tried 1/2 and 3/8 inch end mills but they cut a bad looking radius.  I ended up using a 1/4 inch mill which still left a radius but not so bad that I can't live with it.  Still broke one 1/4 inch end mill and pretty much wore another out.  

Anyway, I got it done.  I think I can use a key seat cutter on the other two radius's, even if I have to make them in order to get the size I need.

I used the same setup process I used on the frame, as shown in this first picture.

The next two pictures are the finished cut in the trigger frame.

This 4th picture shows the original breech block set in the original trigger frame.

The last picture is the original breech block setting in the new trigger frame.
Bob