Hello.
I purchased a 1875 Swedish RB from Simpson's earlier this year. This rifle was rebarreled at the arsenal in 8x 58R. The bore is excellent and shoots nicely.
I'm in the process of restocking the rifle to look more like a proper sporting version. I'm not a gunsmith, just a hobbyist.
I would like to keep the cost of this build reasonable. I like the look of color case hardening but don't feel like spending the bucks for it on this rifle.
I have used Steel FX (You need to Login or Register to view media files and links)
patinas to simulate CCH on other parts with good outcomes and intended to use them on this receiver and lower tang.
Obviously when fitting and finishing the stock and forearm, I will need to sand the wood to metal interface and I intend to do finishing work on the rest of the receiver. Will doing this create a safety concern in regards to removing the outer case hardening that exists on the receiver already? I am aware that loads for these old RB should be kept to the 20,000 PSI range.
Thanks in advance.

If the metal is prepped and polished real color casehardening wont cost as much as his kits do! I'd always choose real color casehardening over the price he's asking for his kit.

1867 Swedish Rolling Block Sporter in 8x58R which was color case hardened when it was rebarreled by Carl Gustaf.

NYS Rolling Block bone color case hardened.

Very nice RB Dave.
Very similar to my project. I'm going to keep her as an 8x58R. I have a high wall in 45-70. This will make a nice intermediate single shot.
Your CCH colors look great! From what I've been researching, the receiver and trigger guard will need to be annealed before CCH.
Kevin

Nice RB Dave. I have the stock inletted along with the shotgun butt plate. The forearm is almost fully inletted. I'm going to try and pour a pewter nose cap. I've never done one before some I'm going to give it a try.

I've built quite a few Rolling Block rifles using Swede receivers, and never annealed any of them before working the metal, or before sending them to Al Springer for color case hardening. Al does them quickly, and gets them back to me within a month.
Never had a barrel that was stubborn either. All came of easily. I have had one stubborn barrel on a single shot of any kind and that was a Ballard #3 .22RF that was a pretty poor condition rifle. I had to heat the receiver at the threads, and then put my action wrench on the receiver, and give it a whack with a big hammer to shock the threads loose.

These are a couple Rolling Blocks Al color cased for me:

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fjrdoc wrote on Sep 7^th, 2024 at 11:32am:


I have a barrel vise that came from Midway USA and was just under $50 when I bought it. My action wrench is homemade by my late friend Whitey Hanson. 
A couple things to watch for when spinning barrels off. First be sure to reinstall the lower tang/trigger plate to keep the receiver from being damaged. Then make sure the action wrench is located over the front edge of the receiver where it's the strongest. Use wood blocks that fit the barrel shape closely, or get some sheet lead to line the blocks that will form to the barrel shape as you tighten the barrel vise down. You don't want the action wrench too tight, just firm; but you want the barrel vise to clamp the barrel tightly. Some rosin in the blocks can help on a stubborn barrel, as will heat, but I rarely need either.
When you start to break the action loose it usually turns easily. If not, then give the action wrench a good whack to shock the threads, and it will usually turn off easily after that. Be sure to hang onto the action wrench as you hit it, as sometimes they'll snap free and the wrench will take off spinning if not held.
Barrels rarely take more than a small amount of torque to break loose, or tighten. But be sure to put alignment marks on the bottom of the barrel and receiver if the plan is to reuse the same barrel. It makes it much easier to index the marks and get it back on perfectly.

Not Vall's, but mine; 1" square, I tried smaller and it wasn't strong enough.  This has held for everything so far and there's been some tough ones.

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